BEDKNOBS & BAUBLES

First Time at Oktoberfest in Munich: Dos and Don’ts + What to Do in Munich

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The world’s favorite beer festival begins this Saturday at the Theresienwiese in Munich: Oktoberfest! If you’re reading this, I suspect you’re heading to the Wiesn to partake in a “Maß” of beer, sing Ein Prosit, and befriend festival goers from all over the globe. Or, at least, planning your bucket list trip to Bavaria!

Back in 2021 — before the end of COVID restrictions — we chatted with our friends about the possibility of going to Oktoberfest the following year. We weren’t sure if the festival was really going to happen after being cancelled for two years, but we optimistically booked our hotel that autumn and plane tickets shortly after. You can imagine our relief — and excitement — when April 2022 brought news that Oktoberfest was back for its 187th year.

It. Was. Amazing.

I can’t overstate how incredible it was to be in a tent with literally thousands of other people sharing such a joyful experience. Everyone was in a jubilant mood — a few too many beers in, but excited to celebrate with one another. It’s unlike anything I’ve experienced before and, if I’m being frank, not something that could happen Stateside without someone ruining the fun. If you even have a passing curiosity about experiencing Oktoberfest, make it a point to join the six million people who visit annually. But first, read my dos and don’ts below as a first-timer at Oktoberfest.

Prost!

Oktoberfest Tips

  • Do take the subway to the festival grounds. German efficiency certainly extends to its metro, which allows you a lot of flexibility when choosing your accommodations. Get off at the appropriately named Theresienwiese station and follow the crowd to Oktoberfest.
  • Do bring a small purse. Your bag must not exceed a volume of three liters or the size of 20 cm x 15 cm x 10 cm.
  • Don’t worry about getting reservations at the tents. It’s nearly impossible for first-timers anyway.
  • Don’t overthink the tent. The best tent will always be the one where you can find a place to sit. If you need help locating a spot, just ask a member of the wait staff (who isn’t currently carrying beer) to help. We had a group of six, which isn’t the easiest to accommodate but with a bit of patience and a helpful waitress, she snagged a table for all of us. We started at the Hofbräu tent and then went to Augustiner.
  • Do chat with others at your table and nearby tables. As you probably know, you’ll be sitting at shared tables with other attendees. Be sure to chat them up! It’s the fastest way to make friends at the Wiesn.
  • Do sit down if you want to order a beer or food. You won’t be served if you’re standing.
  • Do go during the week so it’s easier to find a spot to sit in the tents. They fill up quickly on the weekends and will close when they’re at capacity. While there are some tents like the Spaten one that has seating areas outdoors, you still might need to wait until a spot opens up.
  • Do bring cash. Cash is king at Oktoberfest and you won’t be able to pay with a credit card. There are plenty of ATMs available if you need to get more money out.
  • Do tip. Tipping 1 to 2€ each round is customary.
  • Do eat at the festival. The food in the tents is good! I can vouch for Spaten, which is known for its oxen. There are also food vendors throughout the grounds if you’re looking for a quick bite while you’re checking out the carnival rides.
  • Do wear trachten. Most people will be wearing traditional Bavarian clothing — not just at Oktoberfest, but in Munich while the festival is happening. You should get in on the fun with a dirndl or lederhosen. You can spend hundreds on beautiful trachten, but you can save money and buy your ensemble on Amazon. This is the one that I purchased and I wore it with this blouse. It’s perfectly fine for the festival (especially since you’ll likely get spilled on at some point), however I’ll invest in a nicer dirndl the next time we go.
  • Do wear shoes you don’t mind having beer spilled on. I wore inexpensive ballet flats the first night and sneakers the second.
  • Do tie your dirndl apron on the correct side. On your right: taken. On your left: single. In the middle: mind your business. On the back: widow or waitress.
  • Do learn the songs and sing along. Here’s your primer.
  • Don’t dance on the table. That’s a surefire way to be escorted out.
  • Do be prepared to leave promptly when the festival wraps up each night. Beer and music wrap up at 10:30 p.m. and the staff is quick to get people moving and out of the festival grounds.
  • Do bring change to tip the bathroom attendant.
  • Don’t just experience Oktoberfest while you’re in Munich. It’s a lovely city! See what else we did below.

Sightseeing in Munich

We didn’t have the best weather while were in Munich last year. Hurricane Ian’s impact on the Atlantic created an uncharacteristic week of rain over the city, but that didn’t dampen our willingness to get out an explore. Plus, if a city is this pretty in the rain, imagine how gorgeous it is with nice weather! (And, if things go as planned, we’ll have another crack at it in 2024.) Here’s an overview of the non-Oktoberfest activities we experienced during our five-night stay before going to Salzburg.

  • The English Garden – The English Garden is one of the largest inner-city parks in the world (even larger than Central Park). Highlights: urban surfing and biergartens.
  • Hofbräuhaus – While a restaurant, the Hofbräuhaus is an iconic Munich experience. Stop by for a liter of beer, something to eat, and flag down a one of the waitresses shilling pretzels. (You’ll need cash for the pretzels, but the restaurant itself takes cards.)
  • Victuals Market – An outdoor market with produce, prepared foods, and souvenirs. You’ll notice decorative fountains throughout this area (and in the city itself) where you can actually refill your water bottle.
  • Munich Residence – The Residence served as the seat of government and residence of dukes, electors, and kings. It’s the largest city palace in Germany. The opulent Antiquarium is the oldest room in the complex and is home to antique sculptures.
  • Nymphenburg Palace – This Baroque palace is to the west of the city and served as the main summer residence for Bavarian rulers. It’s easily accessible by taking the metro. This was a major trip highlight for me. The marble hall is exquisite.
  • Bavarian National Museum – This wasn’t on the itinerary, but it was pouring outside and we needed an indoor activity that was near The English Garden. As you’d expect, the museum covers the history and culture of Bavaria, but it also houses a large collection of European artifacts and antiquities. Absolutely worth a stop. There’s a lot to learn via an audio guide.
  • Marienplatz – Obviously, you can’t miss the city square.
  • New Town Hall – While you’re at Marienplatz, head to the New Town Hall for a birds-eye view of the city. This is a great thing to do on your first day in the city as there’s an elevator allowing even the most jetlagged individuals can do something cultural without exertion.

Our Stay

Unsöld’s Factory Hotel
Unsöldstraße 10, 80538 München, Germany

When choosing our accommodations, we decided that we’d rather be closer to non-Oktoberfest activities instead of being near the Wiesn. Munich has efficient public transportation, so there’s no need to restrict yourself geographically to the west side of the city. We chose the Unsöld’s Factory Hotel based on reviews (albeit just a few at the time as it had been recently remodeled), price, and proximity to The English Garden and Marienplatz. Plus, it was located in a quieter part of the city — a welcome respite from the flurry of festival activity.

It was perfect. Comfortable beds aside, my favorite part was the desk fan in the room that I used every night. (Seriously, I would not stop raving about the fan to our friends. It should not be such a rare hotel amenity.)

We walked to Cafe Lehel each morning for coffee and a pastry. They had even memorized our order by the end of our visit! And we had the best dinner at nearby Tattenbach Wirtshaus & Stüberl. I still daydream about the schnitzel!

Let me know if you’re planning an Oktoberfest visit! I’d love to hear about it!

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Three Nights in Salzburg, Austria: Photo Diary & Travel Recommendations

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I have so much to share with you from our recent trip to Europe and I’m going to start with Salzburg, Austria! We stayed at the Goldener Hirsch, a charming property nestled in the historic district that was the ideal home base for exploring the city. Below, you’ll find a list of my travel recommendations, restaurants and bars we enjoyed, travel tips, and photos from our adventure.

See & Do

  • Getreidegasse – This is the shopping street in the historic district with beautiful wrought-iron signs.
  • Fortress Hohensalzburg – The fortress sits atop the highest point in the city and it’s the biggest fully preserved castle in Central Europe. You can enjoy a 360-degree view of Salzburg from the top and visit the on-site museums. I’d recommend taking the funicular up to the fortress. We tried to walk to it, but the steep streets and staircases dissuaded me halfway there and we retreated. Google Maps wasn’t helpful in locating the funicular stop, so use this link to see where it is and add that location to your saved map.
  • DomQuartier Salzburg – This UNESCO World Heritage site is an example of Baroque design. You can view the state rooms, the prince archbishop’s palace, and the cathedral. Plus, there’s a viewing terrace where you can enjoy views of the Cathedral Square and Residence Square.
  • Hellbrunn Palace & Trick Fountains – For Sound of Music fans, the “16 Going on 17” gazebo is here. The best part of this stop, though, are the trick fountains! Prince-Archbishop of Salzburg Markus Sittikus had a series of trick fountains constructed in 1750 to delight and surprise his guests. There are water-powered figures at various installations, grottos, and cascades of water jets from unexpected locations. Keep an eye on the calendar, though, as the fountains are turned off in the winter for maintenance. You can get there by bus No. 25 (the same bus that will take you to the Untersbergbahn cable car to head up to the Alps).
  • Salzburg Museum – I enjoyed learning more about the history of Salzburg here. For instance, I hadn’t realized that the city was promoted as a tourist destination as early as the late 1800s. The museum also has a variety of child-friendly activities.
  • Museum of Modern Art – Skip the museum if you don’t like modern art, but you have to go here for the views. The two sunset photos in the post are from the museums terrace. There are elevators to the top.
  • Mirabell Palace – Grab coffee and a pastry and head to the garden to enjoy the atmosphere. The palace is a working government building, but you can duck in to see the Marble Hall which is fine for a quick snapshot, but that’s about it.
  • Untersberg Cable Car – Taking the cable car up to the Alps was the highlight of my time in Salzburg! It was absolutely stunning! There are two options for a hike; one much easier than the other. I was wearing sneakers and that wasn’t enough for an inexperienced mountain hiker to do the more difficult of the two routes. Don’t let that discourage you, though, because just being on top of the mountain was incredible. There’s a restaurant where you can grab a bite to eat and a beer, too. Take bus No. 25 which terminates at the cable car stop.
  • St. Peter’s Abbey – Sound of Music fans will also recognize this stop from the film. You can explore the catacombs and walk through the cemetery to admire the intricate ironwork of the grave markers.
  • Mozart’s Birthplace – If it weren’t for the Salzburg Card, I wouldn’t have stopped here since it’s not something I’m terribly interested in. That said, I had a much better time than I thought I would! Go when it opens to avoid crowds as it’s one of Austria’s most visited museums.

Eat & Drink

  • Augustiner Bräu – This beer hall and garden has been operating since 1621. When you arrive, you’ll grab a ceramic stein from the shelves near the entrance, rinse it with water from the tap nearby, pay the cashier who will hand you a receipt, then give your receipt to the person actually pouring the beer. It’s an efficient process! There are food stalls on site where you can get everything from cheese to sweets to schnitzel sandwiches.
  • Alchimiste Belge – If you’re growing tired of Bavarian beer, this cozy bar has an impressive beer menu.
  • Balkan Grill Walter – Tucked away in one of the pedestrian passages is Balkan Grill Walter, a window-service location that serves bosna, an Austrian street food made of two grilled sausages tucked in a bun and topped with onions, parsley, and curry powder. They’re cheap and amazing.
  • Restaurant Stiegl-Keller – Look no further for traditional Austrian cuisine. I had the best schnitzel. There’s also an outdoor terrace where you can overlook the city.
  • Stiftsbäckerei St Peter – The oldest bakery in Salzburg dates back to the 12th century and is still still powered by a water wheel and uses a wood-fired oven. We shared an impossibly soft roll with raisins that was delicious.
  • Salzburger Grill Imbiss – This is another sausage stand that’s known for its bosna, but it also serves a variety of wursts including currywurst and has beer available. Take your food around the corner to University Square and enjoy your meal on the steps to Kollegienkirche to people watch.
  • Mozart Balls – The city’s most famous candy is made from pistachio, marzipan and nougat then covered in chocolate. You’ll find these just about everywhere in town. From what I understand, go to chocolate shops if you plan to enjoy them in the city, but ones from tourist shops or grocery stores and preferred if you’re going to bring them home as gifts as they’re more likely to have a longer shelf life.
  • Additional recommendations that were on our list, but we didn’t make it to: Die Weisse, Café Tomaselli, S’Kloane Brauhaus, and 220 GRAD.

Travel Tips

  • Get the Salzburg Card! For €45 per person, we had 72 hours’ access to every tourist site and the city’s public transportation — including transportation to Untersberg and a roundtrip ticket for the cable car. It’s a steal and also makes it a no-brainer to pop into attractions you might not otherwise be interested in. This guide has a comprehensive overview of the card benefits and suggested itineraries. I’d recommend getting the Salzburg Card right away when you arrive in the city. You can find it just about everywhere (we purchased ours at a bookstore in Salzburg’s main train station), and then use it for transportation to your hotel. We walked from the main station to our hotel in the historic district and it wasn’t a pleasant stroll. There were plenty of buses at the station that would have brought us there.
  • Public Transportation – The majority of the buses will take you to the same destinations in and around the historic district. They’re not particularly punctual, but they’ll come eventually. To go to the airport, we had our hotel call a taxi for us. It was a fairly quick drive that cost around €20. Worth it.
  • You’ll need cash. Many of the main tourist destinations and restaurants took credit, but we needed cash for smaller locations like the bosna stands and the Belgian beer bar.

Our Stay

Hotel Goldener Hirsch
Getreidegasse 37, 5020 Salzburg, Austria

I’ll be honest, this is the nicest hotel I’ve ever stayed in. It’s located in the city’s historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is brimming with Austrian charm — not surprising given its 600-year-old hunting lodge heritage, which is reflected throughout the property with mounted antlers and a leaping deer motif. We were upgraded to a king suite (see a video walkthrough here) that was well-appointed with all of the amenities you’d expect at a luxury hotel. The evening turn-down service and the accompanying chocolates didn’t disappoint either! I really can’t say enough good things about the property and its staff, and wholeheartedly recommend staying here if you’re planning a visit to Salzburg.

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Visit Portugal: Lisbon Recommendations

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This post is long overdue! We traveled to Portugal in 2019 and I had wanted to share my favorites with you, but doing so seemed tone deaf during the lockdowns of the past two years. I realize that things aren’t perfectly safe just yet, but the world is starting to open up and Portugal is one of the most highly vaccinated countries. It’s also one of the most beautiful. Even if you can’t make it this year, I urge you to add the country to a future itinerary. In this post, I’ll share a list of the things we loved in the city of Lisbon.

Visiting new cities and countries often leaves me yearning for the opportunity to make my way back, and Lisbon was no different. The weathered beauty of the Alfama district, the intricacy of the tile work that adorned both the streets and buildings, the friendly people who know how to celebrate a soccer match, and — truth be told — the vihno verde that was both incredibly cheap and incredibly delicious made Lisbon such a special place to visit. Scroll down for some of my favorite snapshots from the trip, along with my recommendations for places to see, eat, drink, and shop in the city!

Tower of Belem
Lisbon Portugal
Mosterio de Sao Vicente de Fora

SEE & DO

  • Explore the Neighborhoods – It’s hard to put together a list of my favorite sightseeing stops from Lisbon because the city itself was just so beautiful. Everywhere you looked, tiles adorned buildings and were set into patterns on the streets and sidewalks. Honestly, just wandering around the city — especially in the Alfma district — was the biggest cultural highlight of the trip.
  • Museu Nacional do Azulejo – A beautiful collection of Portuguese tile.
  • Terreiro do Paço – This is the harbor-facing plaza with the yellow façade that you see in many photos of Lisbon. It’s absolutely worth the photo opp, and do take a walk along the water while you’re in the area.
  • Castelo de S. Jorge – The first fortifications of this Moorish castle date back to the 1st century BC. You can explore the grounds, but do be careful because there aren’t many guardrails.
  • Jerónimos Monastery – This is in the Belem area of Lisbon. After taking photos of the Padrão dos Descobrimentos monument and of the exterior of the Tower of Belem (we heard lukewarm reviews of the interior and just snapped photos), head over to the monastery. The architecture — especially the cloisters — is stunning.
  • Mosterio de Sao Vicente de Fora – We happened to be having a drink at a miradouros (more info below in the Eat & Drink section) and saw this building in the distance. It looked like people were on the roof, so we made the trek over. It ended up being one of the trip highlights and we didn’t even have it on our must-see map!
  • Carmo Convent – The 1755 earthquake left ruins of this gothic church. There’s a museum attached with artifacts.
  • Santa Justa Lift – I don’t want to disappoint you, but this is just an elevator. Sure, it’s pretty. But there are better views in the city at miradouros and they’ll be less crowded.
Lisbon, Portugal
Jerónimos Monastery

EAT & DRINK

  • Miradouros – There are miradouros all over Lisbon, which are little parks with spectacular views, often with a kiosk that sells snacks, wine, and beer.
  • Ginja – Try a shot of ginja, a cherry-infused liqueur served with a cherry in the glass, and small shops around the city. You can get it in a chocolate cup if you feel so inclined.
  • Pastel de Nata – Of course you can’t go to Lisbon and not have these iconic egg custard tarts with a shot of espresso (“bica”). We had them at both Fabrica da Nata and the iconic Pasteis de Belem. They’re both delicious.
  • Fábrica Coffee Roasters – We went here a couple of times for breakfast and loved it. They also had iced coffee, which is always a treat abroad (though I think iced coffee is finally becoming more ubiquitous).
  • Simpli – We also enjoyed this café and bakery. They put an orange slice in our iced coffee for aromatics, which was a fun surprise.
  • Boa-Bao – We were in the mood for Thai one night and stumbled across this restaurant. It had an upbeat atmosphere and they had a fun cocktail program.
  • Time Out Market – Sample some of the city’s most popular restaurants in one location. It ended up being an easy go-to when we were tired and didn’t want to put thought into another restaurant to try. We could split up and find our own meals. I went to Miguel Castro e Silva twice for the Bacalhau à Brás (codfish with julienne potatoes and scrambled eggs).
  • Pub Lisboeta – Cozy little bar with pizza and friendly service.
  • The Beer Station – I’m glad to see this small beer bar is still around! It’s in an open-air plaza near the Rossio train station.
  • Delirium Café Lisboa – Belgian beer fan? Here you go! They also serve frites.
  • Other Beer Bars – Crafty Corner, Cerveteca Lisboa, and Duque Brewpub.

SHOP

  • Sango Handmade Creations – I bought a camera strap from this artisan. (Truth be told, it was at a small art fair in Porto, but I wanted to include an acknowledgment here!)
  • Conserveira de Lisboa – You have to stop here to buy tinned fish! This shop is quaint and Instagram-worthy. Ask the people working for guidance on your selections if you’re dumbfounded like I was. They might come off a little reserved at first, but they’re incredibly friendly and willing to help.
  • A Vida Portuguesa – You’ll find this store all over the city. It has the best selection of Portuguese souvenirs covering a wide range of products.

ADDITIONAL NOTES

  • We stayed at the Iberostar. It was beautiful and well appointed. They even gave us a complimentary glass of champagne during check in, which I couldn’t turn down despite being exhausted from traveling. (We had a layover in Brussels and then our flight to Lisbon was delayed due to an airline worker strike. It was a whole thing.)
  • We found Lisbon to be incredibly affordable, and this extended to both public transportation and Ubers. There was one night we took an Uber from the Alfama district back up to our hotel and the total amount due was the equivalent of $3. I gave a 100% tip because that felt entirely too cheap!
  • You may be tempted to add a day trip to Sintra. I would only go if you were staying in Lisbon for an extended period of time (we were there for five days and six nights) as it really does take the better part of a day and it’s crowded. Most guides will recommend that you take the city’s buses to go to the destinations and while you certainly could, we took Ubers to the two places we wanted to go: Pena Palace and Quinta da Regaleira. A quiet, air-conditioned car was a nice respite from the touristy train with people packed in like sardines. If you do go, I’d recommend stopping for tapas at Tascantiga.
  • The best parts of the trip were — as always — the parts we didn’t plan for. We stumbled across a festival in one of the city squares. We joined in the dancing and split a bottle of wine, and it ended up being one of my most cherished moments of the trip.
Museu Nacional do Azulejo
Quinta da Regaleira
Lisbon Portugal

For more travel guides, click here!

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Travel Guide: A Weekend in Richmond, Virginia

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Richmond, Virginia had been on our travel list for awhile thanks to its burgeoning beer scene, but it wasn’t until we purchased the Graduate hotel’s “Hall Pass” package (read about it here) last summer that we decided fly to the historic city. In truth, we hesitated because we weren’t sure that we’d find enough to do to make a trip worthwhile. However, we were happily proven wrong with plenty to keep us busy during our three-night stay. Below, you’ll find some snapshots from our trip along with a list of our recommendations and “insider” suggestions.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Below, I’ve compiled a list of the things we’ve enjoyed in Richmond. I’ve also included additional recommendations as a sort of “insider’s list” with places to visit from Dave’s sister’s friend, Meghan, who works at Visit Richmond and from my Instagram friend Laura who used to live there.

SEE & DO

  • Virginia Museum of Fine Arts – We could have spent so much more time at the art museum. It has an impressive collection — the Fabergé collection being one of the highlights — with well-executed special exhibits. (We were there for “The Dirty South” exhibit.)
  • Quirk – Stop in to browse the gallery or get a cocktail, even if you’re not staying at the hotel.
  • Edgar Allen Poe Museum – Poe spent the better part of his life in Richmond. This museum celebrates his life and legacy. It’s dorky and I absolutely loved it.
  • Riverfront Canal Walk – Located along downtown’s riverfront, the Canal Walk stretches 1.25 miles along the James River and Kanawha and Haxall Canals. You can walk, bike, or take a boat tour along the canal. Read more about its history here.
  • Virginia State Capitol – Even if you don’t want to tour the capitol, the grounds around the building are pretty with statues and government buildings.
  • Richmond Mural Project – Back in 2012, Richmond embarked on its goal of creating over 100 murals in just five years.
  • Explore Shockoe Slip – This area of the city was founded as a trade post in the early 1600s and is now the location of shops, restaurants, and businesses. It’s fun to poke around and walk the cobblestone streets.
  • Explore Shockoe Bottom – This area of the city has a somber past as the location where slaves were brought into town. Now, it’s a charming, industrial neighborhood with cobblestone streets, murals, restaurants, and shops. I stopped in at Shockoe Bottom Clay where I purchased a wood-fired ceramic vase by local artist Jocelyn Sandberg, which I think is actually the piece in the upper right of this image.

EAT & DRINK

If that last bullet of food recommendations is any indication, we need to make another trip to the city just to dine!

OUR STAY & TRANSPORTATION

I wanted to add a few notes about transportation and accommodations. We stayed at the Graduate hotel, which you can read more about here. As far as transportation is concerned, you can absolutely get by without renting a car if you’re planning to stay in the city. Ubers were plentiful and the city has an incredibly easy bus rapid transit (BRT) system to get you to the different neighborhoods quickly and efficiently.

For more travel guides, click here!

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Travel Guide: Door County, Wisconsin

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I’m so excited to share our recent trip to Door County with you! We’ve been eager to go back ever since we went last summer. A weekend of social distanced activities, hiking, outdoor meals and drinks was just what we needed in the midst of the pandemic and this year was no different — with the exception of a lifted mask mandate. It was the perfect way to wrap up summer 2021 and staying at the recently opened (and beautiful!) Dörr Hotel made it even more memorable!

If you’re not sure where Door County is, it’s Wisconsin’s peninsula (or thumb if you think of the state as a mitten). It’s nestled between Green Bay and Lake Michigan, so you’re looking at water-related activities and lakeshore views. Door County is also famous for its cherries and there’s no shortage of cute farm stores for you to stock your pantry with preserves and pie fillings. Everything is close to each other up there, so it’s common that you’ll be zig-zagging between the towns during your stay.

OUR STAY

Seriously, Door County was in need of a chic boutique hotel and the Dörr delivers! The Scandinavian-inspired hotel is located in Sister Bay and opened in May of this year — and it’s beautiful! I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves in terms of the design. Aesthetics aside, the hotel had a fire pit, cornhole, ping-pong, grab-and-go breakfast, a small bar (with surprisingly good draft options), private balconies for most rooms, among other thoughtful amenities. (We weren’t the only ones in love with the hotel; many people checking out were already booking dates for next year!)

DAY ONE

We arrived in Sturgeon Bay, the southernmost town in what’s officially considered the tourist area of Door County, around 4 p.m. and stopped by Renard’s Cheese Store to pick up a bag of fresh cheese curds (the squeakier, the better!) for the remainder of our drive to our first stop: Whitefish Dunes State Park. Whitefish Dunes is right next Cave Point County Park, which is known for rocky cliffs along Lake Michigan. The two parks connect and since we have a State Park sticker, we opted to park at Whitefish Dunes where it typically has ample parking space available when the other park is busy. The coolest part of the parks is watching the waves crash against the rocky shoreline when it’s windy. You can even feel the ground move beneath you as water makes its way into the crevices below. After an hourlong hike, we headed up to Sister Bay to check-in at our hotel, went to Wild Tomato for dinner (delicious!), and ended our evening with a couple of drinks at Al Johnson’s Stabbur (an AstroTurf’ed outdoor beer garden).

DAY TWO

The next morning, we went to Al Johnson’s main restaurant for breakfast. It’s a Door County institution, stopping people in their tracks for one very particular reason: there are goats grazing on the grass roof of the building. It’s part of the Swedish charm of the place. While the restaurant usually has a long wait to get in, apparently the week before Labor Day is a quiet one in Door County and we were seated right away. We split a savory breakfast and an order of Swedish pancakes topped with Door County cherries. After breakfast, we went to the Cana Island Lighthouse, the area’s most iconic lighthouse standing for over 150 years. After parking our car on the mainland, we took a tractor over the causeway to the island itself. The lighthouse tower was closed for tours the day we were there, but we were able to explore the island and tour the lighthouse keeper’s quarters before heading back. Afterward, we stopped in Bailey’s Harbor for a quick lunch and a beer at Door County Brewing Company, then we were off to Peninsula State Park to see the lighthouse, wade in Lake Michigan, and climb their new lookout tower. We stopped by Bad Moravian in Ephraim for a beer before heading back to our hotel to fresh up for dinner at the Wickman House. We had made reservations a month prior and it was the best decision. The restaurant is in what looks like an old farmhouse and inside the atmosphere is quiet and intimate, the staff is friendly and the food and drinks were amazing. (I’m still daydreaming about the smoked whitefish cake with kimchi remoulade!) We spent nearly two hours dining. The place was even more magical as night settled in and the string lights outside twinkled.

DAY THREE

We kicked off our last full day in Door County with iced coffee and a breakfast sandwich to go from Skip Stone Coffee Roasters and then drove over to Seaquist Orchards Farm Market where I dropped $75 on a variety of cherry products including cocktail cherries, cherry syrup, cherry pie filling, cherry salsa, etc. — and cherry turnovers that we enjoyed at Ellison Bluff County Park overlooking the water. With sugar coursing through our veins, we made our way to my favorite natural area in the state: Newport State Park. We went on a three-mile hike through a fern microhabitat before continuing along the bluffs to the water and enjoyed a short break at a secluded beach clearing. Once we had our fill of nature, we decided to stop by Fish Creek to browse the shops where I bought a pair of earrings at Sister Golden and a ceramic cup from TR Pottery. Then, it was finally time for our second annual Door County mini golf showdown. There are two places for mini golf: Red Putter (old-fashioned, no frills) and Pirate’s Cove (more of an elaborate theme). I won last year’s game at Pirate’s Cove and [sadly] Dave beat me this year at Red Putter. Our next trip to Door County will cinch the championship for one of us. We celebrated his win with a beer at Peach Barn Brewing, a new brewery in the area that was just alright, but had a pretty outdoor space. We decided to go to Husby’s for pub fare (and a surprisingly good chicken Caesar salad) for dinner before ending our getaway with a brandy old-fashioned across the street at Sister Bay Bowl and a nightcap back Al Johnson’s Stabbur.

DAY FOUR

I had one very important to-do item on our last day: stop by Lautenbach’s Orchard for a few jars of their cherry jalapeno spread. I bought one last year and went through it all in record speed, smearing it on grilled cheese sandwiches. A year was too long to go without that taste sensation and now I feel like I have a sufficient supply to hold me over until our next trip to Door County!

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Below, I’ve compiled a list of the things we’ve enjoyed in Door County, along with a couple of things that remain on our to-do list for next time!

SEE & DO

  • Cave Point County Park // Whitefish Dunes State Park {Sturgeon Bay} – If you have a State Park sticker, opt to park at Whitefish Dunes and walk over. Cave Point is known for its rocky shoreline along Lake Michigan. Make a point to go on the windiest day of your trip.
  • Cana Island Lighthouse {Baileys Harbor} – If you bring your passport along, you can get it stamped at Cana Island. Be sure to double check the schedule for climbing the lighthouse tower as staffing issues may impact the hours of operation.
  • Peninsula State Park {Fish Creek} – There’s a lot to do at this park, including a lighthouse, a scenic lookout point, hiking, and swimming.
  • Ellison Bluff County Park {Ellison Bay} – This small park offers a pretty view of the water.
  • Newport State Park {Ellison Bay} – We enjoy the Lynd Point/Fern Loop that includes part of the Europe Bay trail for roughly a three-mile hike. Wear a swimsuit under your hiking clothes if it’s warm as there are a couple of quiet areas to go for a dip.
  • The Ridges Sanctuary {Baileys Harbor} – A boardwalk through the woods and you can see the Baileys Harbor Range Lights, built in 1869.
  • Mini Golf {Ephraim} – Choose between Red Putter and Pirate’s Cove (or do both).
  • Sturgeon Bay Ship Canal Pierhead {Sturgeon Bay} – Stop for a photo when you’re on your drive north.
  • The Hardy Gallery {Ephraim} – A graffitied barn on the water that houses a gallery.

SHOP

  • Renard’s Cheese Store {Sturgeon Bay} – Buy a bag of fresh, squeaky cheese curds for the rest of your road trip.
  • Seaquist Orchards Farm Market {Sister Bay} – More cherry preservatives and food items than you can dream of.
  • Sister Golden {Fish Creek} – Think of it as Anthropologie’s cooler artisan sister.
  • TR Pottery {Fish Creek} – Affordable ceramics. I’ve purchased something each year.
  • Lautenbach’s Orchard {Fish Creek} – Get the cherry jalapeno spread. If you’re into cherry wine, you can do a tasting.

EAT

  • Bearded Heart {Baileys Harbor} – I went here every morning during last year’s visit for the avocado toast.
  • Skip Stone Coffee Roasters {Sister Bay}
  • Ephraim Coffee Lab {Ephraim}
  • Chives {Baileys Harbor} – Especially fun if their food truck is outside.
  • Wild Tomato {Sister Bay & Fish Creek} – Wood-fired pizza.
  • Al Johnson’s {Sister Bay} – A Door County institution with goats grazing on the grass roof. The food is typical of a diner, but you can get Swedish pancakes topped with piles of Door County cherries. I wouldn’t wait an exceptionally long time to eat here, but it’s worth the stop if you’re able to get in right away.
  • Wickman House {Ellison Bay} – Make reservations here if you’re looking for a nice dinner with excellent cocktails.
  • Trixie’s {Ephraim} – Sister restaurant of Wickman House. We haven’t been, but I’ve heard wonderful things. It’s on our list for next time.
  • Husby’s {Sister Bay} – Pub fare; spacious outdoor bar.
  • AC Tap {Baileys Harbor} – An easy place to stop for a solid pub burger.

DRINK

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