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Travel Diary: 48 Hours in York, England

February 28, 2025 by jessica Leave a Comment

Last October, we took our third trip to London. I felt a bit guilty about returning to a city we’ve been to a few times already, but there was something so tempting (and relaxing) about revisiting a familiar place. The only condition we had when booking was that we’d spend at least part of the time in another city, which would be easy since we hadn’t really explored other parts of the U.K. beyond London. We chose to spend two nights in the medieval city of York. Rumored to be the most haunted city in Europe, we chose York for its rich history, walkable city center, ancient architecture, and cozy pubs — not ghosts.

DAY ONE – While Dave was getting ready for the day, I popped over to Bangers in London to get breakfast (get the bacon butty with the bright, herby green sauce and hash browns on the side) before the two-hour train ride from the King’s Cross station to York. It was raining when we arrived at the York station around 11:30 a.m., so we made a beeline for the Hotel Indigo York to drop off our bags before exploring.

Our first stop was Brew York for a beer and lunch from their in-house restaurant, YUZU Street Food, where we shared the chicken katsu curry bowl and a serving of the salt and pepper fries. Our room wouldn’t be ready until 3 p.m., which gave us time to stroll through The Shambles, see to the Roman Column, gawk at the exterior of the York Minster, pop into The Red House Antique Center, and have another pint at House of the Trembling Madness before it was time to head back to check-in.

And this is where our first day in York took a bit of a turn. We received the keys to the room and it, well, wasn’t what I expected. The room was cramped and dusty, the bathroom smelled like sewage, and the bed couldn’t have been much bigger than a full-sized bed. I had booked a king room on the IHG website with points, not knowing that there were two types of “king” rooms at the hotel: a “standard room” with a British king-size bed (similar to an American queen, in theory) or a “premium room” with an American king. (The website doesn’t actually clarify this as both rooms have the bed sized listed simply as “king.”) I called to the front desk to ask for clarification on my booking and to see if another room was available. There wasn’t. We spent about an hour weighing our options and ultimately decided to book a room at the nearby Hampton by Hilton. The Hampton was basic, but it was clean and spacious, had an actual king-size bed and a massive window, and the staff was so kind. Plus, a full breakfast was included. It was the right decision, even if we had to pay for two hotel rooms. (I really hate coming off as a prima donna, but the Hotel Indigo room was so far from what I had anticipated based on reviews and photos. I was so frustrated and needed a reset — and a bigger bed.)

Having that debacle behind us, we set out to Pivni, a freehouse in a three-story 16th century building, and then to Cresci for Neapolitan pizza (make a reservation; there was a line when we left) before turning in for the night.

DAY TWO – My singular mission the next morning was to procure a set of ghost figurines from The York Ghost Merchants. York Ghost Merchants creates small, charming ghosts in an array of colors and they’ve really become a hot commodity. (Plus, they were the ideal souvenir from York as we were just weeks away from Halloween.) There are two locations: one in the Shambles and another called “The Dispensary” located in St. Anthonys Garden. Both have long lines, so you’ll be in it for the long haul. I was fortunate to only have an hour wait, which gave me time to enjoy a to-go coffee from a local café and work on the morning’s New York Times crossword. Dave, less enthused about the wait, walked around the gardens and snapped photos of the wiremesh “ghosts” he found that were part of a citywide annual installation called Ghosts in the Gardens.

Ghosts procured, we set out to the nearest access point of the York City Walls. The city walls were originally established in 71 AD by the Romans and were later expanded and fortified during the medieval period. They’re the longest medieval town walls in England, circling the city center with a 2.11-mile loop that’s free to access. We continued along the walls for about a mile before heading back to the city center in search of a break at Trembling Madness before going to the York Minster where we’d ascend 275 stairs to the top for views of the city.

We’re no strangers to climbing hundreds of stairs for a birds-eye view. However, unlike many other cathedral towers we’ve climbed, this only had one rest stop roughly halfway up where you pop back outside near the flying buttresses. If that’s not your speed, the Minster itself is still worth a visit inside for the impressive Gothic architecture.

Having had our fill exercise for awhile, we were past due for lunch and stopped by Ye Olde Starre Inn. It’s believed to be the oldest public house in York and, apparently, haunted — although we didn’t see any indication of the latter. We grabbed a table outside and shared the battered halloumi bites and a steak and ale pie that I’m still thinking about.

Afterward, we set out to the Museum Gardens to see the ruins of St. Mary’s Abbey and Saint Olave’s Church, snaking through the garden toward River Ouse. We stumbled across The Star Inn, which has an expansive outdoor patio overlooking the river — the perfect spot for an evening G&T before continuing along the river and back up to continue walking along the city walls.

By the time we lost daylight, we pub hopped to The Phoenix (they have an outdoor patio next to the city walls that would have been charming in the afternoon), back to Brew York for a pint and dumplings, and The Blue Bell. The Blue Bell is really worth a stop. It was established in 1798 and was last decorated in 1903 with its now signature Edwardian character. It’s a cozy, intimate space with a list of house rules: no swearing, no mobile phone noise (thank goodness), no groups, and no patrons under 18.

DAY THREE – Our train back to London was scheduled for 2 p.m. While there were still museums on our list that could visit, the weather was too nice and York too beautiful to be cooped up indoors. Instead, we grabbed a latte at 200 Degrees (which was mediocre at best; we struggled to find good coffee in York) and let ourselves get lost along the cobblestone roads and public gardens. We made a quick stop at the Nutcracker Christmas Shop for a York-themed souvenir ornament before collecting our bags at the hotel and hopping on a bus to the train station where we waited for our departure time at York Tap.

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Filed Under: Travel, Travel Guide Tagged With: England, Travel Diary, Travel Guide, York

First Time at Oktoberfest in Munich: Dos and Don’ts + What to Do in Munich

September 13, 2023 by jessica Leave a Comment

The world’s favorite beer festival begins this Saturday at the Theresienwiese in Munich: Oktoberfest! If you’re reading this, I suspect you’re heading to the Wiesn to partake in a “Maß” of beer, sing Ein Prosit, and befriend festival goers from all over the globe. Or, at least, planning your bucket list trip to Bavaria!

Back in 2021 — before the end of COVID restrictions — we chatted with our friends about the possibility of going to Oktoberfest the following year. We weren’t sure if the festival was really going to happen after being cancelled for two years, but we optimistically booked our hotel that autumn and plane tickets shortly after. You can imagine our relief — and excitement — when April 2022 brought news that Oktoberfest was back for its 187th year.

It. Was. Amazing.

I can’t overstate how incredible it was to be in a tent with literally thousands of other people sharing such a joyful experience. Everyone was in a jubilant mood — a few too many beers in, but excited to celebrate with one another. It’s unlike anything I’ve experienced before and, if I’m being frank, not something that could happen Stateside without someone ruining the fun. If you even have a passing curiosity about experiencing Oktoberfest, make it a point to join the six million people who visit annually. But first, read my dos and don’ts below as a first-timer at Oktoberfest.

Prost!


Oktoberfest Tips


  • Do take the subway to the festival grounds. German efficiency certainly extends to its metro, which allows you a lot of flexibility when choosing your accommodations. Get off at the appropriately named Theresienwiese station and follow the crowd to Oktoberfest.
  • Do bring a small purse. Your bag must not exceed a volume of three liters or the size of 20 cm x 15 cm x 10 cm.
  • Don’t worry about getting reservations at the tents. It’s nearly impossible for first-timers anyway.
  • Don’t overthink the tent. The best tent will always be the one where you can find a place to sit. If you need help locating a spot, just ask a member of the wait staff (who isn’t currently carrying beer) to help. We had a group of six, which isn’t the easiest to accommodate but with a bit of patience and a helpful waitress, she snagged a table for all of us. We started at the Hofbräu tent and then went to Augustiner.
  • Do chat with others at your table and nearby tables. As you probably know, you’ll be sitting at shared tables with other attendees. Be sure to chat them up! It’s the fastest way to make friends at the Wiesn.
  • Do sit down if you want to order a beer or food. You won’t be served if you’re standing.
  • Do go during the week so it’s easier to find a spot to sit in the tents. They fill up quickly on the weekends and will close when they’re at capacity. While there are some tents like the Spaten one that has seating areas outdoors, you still might need to wait until a spot opens up.
  • Do bring cash. Cash is king at Oktoberfest and you won’t be able to pay with a credit card. There are plenty of ATMs available if you need to get more money out.
  • Do tip. Tipping 1 to 2€ each round is customary.
  • Do eat at the festival. The food in the tents is good! I can vouch for Spaten, which is known for its oxen. There are also food vendors throughout the grounds if you’re looking for a quick bite while you’re checking out the carnival rides.
  • Do wear trachten. Most people will be wearing traditional Bavarian clothing — not just at Oktoberfest, but in Munich while the festival is happening. You should get in on the fun with a dirndl or lederhosen. You can spend hundreds on beautiful trachten, but you can save money and buy your ensemble on Amazon. This is the one that I purchased and I wore it with this blouse. It’s perfectly fine for the festival (especially since you’ll likely get spilled on at some point), however I’ll invest in a nicer dirndl the next time we go.
  • Do wear shoes you don’t mind having beer spilled on. I wore inexpensive ballet flats the first night and sneakers the second.
  • Do tie your dirndl apron on the correct side. On your right: taken. On your left: single. In the middle: mind your business. On the back: widow or waitress.
  • Do learn the songs and sing along. Here’s your primer.
  • Don’t dance on the table. That’s a surefire way to be escorted out.
  • Do be prepared to leave promptly when the festival wraps up each night. Beer and music wrap up at 10:30 p.m. and the staff is quick to get people moving and out of the festival grounds.
  • Do bring change to tip the bathroom attendant.
  • Don’t just experience Oktoberfest while you’re in Munich. It’s a lovely city! See what else we did below.


Sightseeing in Munich


We didn’t have the best weather while were in Munich last year. Hurricane Ian’s impact on the Atlantic created an uncharacteristic week of rain over the city, but that didn’t dampen our willingness to get out an explore. Plus, if a city is this pretty in the rain, imagine how gorgeous it is with nice weather! (And, if things go as planned, we’ll have another crack at it in 2024.) Here’s an overview of the non-Oktoberfest activities we experienced during our five-night stay before going to Salzburg.

  • The English Garden – The English Garden is one of the largest inner-city parks in the world (even larger than Central Park). Highlights: urban surfing and biergartens.
  • Hofbräuhaus – While a restaurant, the Hofbräuhaus is an iconic Munich experience. Stop by for a liter of beer, something to eat, and flag down a one of the waitresses shilling pretzels. (You’ll need cash for the pretzels, but the restaurant itself takes cards.)
  • Victuals Market – An outdoor market with produce, prepared foods, and souvenirs. You’ll notice decorative fountains throughout this area (and in the city itself) where you can actually refill your water bottle.
  • Munich Residence – The Residence served as the seat of government and residence of dukes, electors, and kings. It’s the largest city palace in Germany. The opulent Antiquarium is the oldest room in the complex and is home to antique sculptures.
  • Nymphenburg Palace – This Baroque palace is to the west of the city and served as the main summer residence for Bavarian rulers. It’s easily accessible by taking the metro. This was a major trip highlight for me. The marble hall is exquisite.
  • Bavarian National Museum – This wasn’t on the itinerary, but it was pouring outside and we needed an indoor activity that was near The English Garden. As you’d expect, the museum covers the history and culture of Bavaria, but it also houses a large collection of European artifacts and antiquities. Absolutely worth a stop. There’s a lot to learn via an audio guide.
  • Marienplatz – Obviously, you can’t miss the city square.
  • New Town Hall – While you’re at Marienplatz, head to the New Town Hall for a birds-eye view of the city. This is a great thing to do on your first day in the city as there’s an elevator allowing even the most jetlagged individuals can do something cultural without exertion.


Our Stay


Unsöld’s Factory Hotel
Unsöldstraße 10, 80538 München, Germany

When choosing our accommodations, we decided that we’d rather be closer to non-Oktoberfest activities instead of being near the Wiesn. Munich has efficient public transportation, so there’s no need to restrict yourself geographically to the west side of the city. We chose the Unsöld’s Factory Hotel based on reviews (albeit just a few at the time as it had been recently remodeled), price, and proximity to The English Garden and Marienplatz. Plus, it was located in a quieter part of the city — a welcome respite from the flurry of festival activity.

It was perfect. Comfortable beds aside, my favorite part was the desk fan in the room that I used every night. (Seriously, I would not stop raving about the fan to our friends. It should not be such a rare hotel amenity.)

We walked to Cafe Lehel each morning for coffee and a pastry. They had even memorized our order by the end of our visit! And we had the best dinner at nearby Tattenbach Wirtshaus & Stüberl. I still daydream about the schnitzel!

Let me know if you’re planning an Oktoberfest visit! I’d love to hear about it!

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Filed Under: Travel, Travel Guide Tagged With: Germany, Munich, Oktoberfest, Travel Guide

Three Nights in Salzburg, Austria: Photo Diary & Travel Recommendations

December 2, 2022 by jessica Leave a Comment

I have so much to share with you from our recent trip to Europe and I’m going to start with Salzburg, Austria! We stayed at the Goldener Hirsch, a charming property nestled in the historic district that was the ideal home base for exploring the city. Below, you’ll find a list of my travel recommendations, restaurants and bars we enjoyed, travel tips, and photos from our adventure.


See & Do


  • Getreidegasse – This is the shopping street in the historic district with beautiful wrought-iron signs.
  • Fortress Hohensalzburg – The fortress sits atop the highest point in the city and it’s the biggest fully preserved castle in Central Europe. You can enjoy a 360-degree view of Salzburg from the top and visit the on-site museums. I’d recommend taking the funicular up to the fortress. We tried to walk to it, but the steep streets and staircases dissuaded me halfway there and we retreated. Google Maps wasn’t helpful in locating the funicular stop, so use this link to see where it is and add that location to your saved map.
  • DomQuartier Salzburg – This UNESCO World Heritage site is an example of Baroque design. You can view the state rooms, the prince archbishop’s palace, and the cathedral. Plus, there’s a viewing terrace where you can enjoy views of the Cathedral Square and Residence Square.
  • Hellbrunn Palace & Trick Fountains – For Sound of Music fans, the “16 Going on 17” gazebo is here. The best part of this stop, though, are the trick fountains! Prince-Archbishop of Salzburg Markus Sittikus had a series of trick fountains constructed in 1750 to delight and surprise his guests. There are water-powered figures at various installations, grottos, and cascades of water jets from unexpected locations. Keep an eye on the calendar, though, as the fountains are turned off in the winter for maintenance. You can get there by bus No. 25 (the same bus that will take you to the Untersbergbahn cable car to head up to the Alps).
  • Salzburg Museum – I enjoyed learning more about the history of Salzburg here. For instance, I hadn’t realized that the city was promoted as a tourist destination as early as the late 1800s. The museum also has a variety of child-friendly activities.
  • Museum of Modern Art – Skip the museum if you don’t like modern art, but you have to go here for the views. The two sunset photos in the post are from the museums terrace. There are elevators to the top.
  • Mirabell Palace – Grab coffee and a pastry and head to the garden to enjoy the atmosphere. The palace is a working government building, but you can duck in to see the Marble Hall which is fine for a quick snapshot, but that’s about it.
  • Untersberg Cable Car – Taking the cable car up to the Alps was the highlight of my time in Salzburg! It was absolutely stunning! There are two options for a hike; one much easier than the other. I was wearing sneakers and that wasn’t enough for an inexperienced mountain hiker to do the more difficult of the two routes. Don’t let that discourage you, though, because just being on top of the mountain was incredible. There’s a restaurant where you can grab a bite to eat and a beer, too. Take bus No. 25 which terminates at the cable car stop.
  • St. Peter’s Abbey – Sound of Music fans will also recognize this stop from the film. You can explore the catacombs and walk through the cemetery to admire the intricate ironwork of the grave markers.
  • Mozart’s Birthplace – If it weren’t for the Salzburg Card, I wouldn’t have stopped here since it’s not something I’m terribly interested in. That said, I had a much better time than I thought I would! Go when it opens to avoid crowds as it’s one of Austria’s most visited museums.


Eat & Drink


  • Augustiner Bräu – This beer hall and garden has been operating since 1621. When you arrive, you’ll grab a ceramic stein from the shelves near the entrance, rinse it with water from the tap nearby, pay the cashier who will hand you a receipt, then give your receipt to the person actually pouring the beer. It’s an efficient process! There are food stalls on site where you can get everything from cheese to sweets to schnitzel sandwiches.
  • Alchimiste Belge – If you’re growing tired of Bavarian beer, this cozy bar has an impressive beer menu.
  • Balkan Grill Walter – Tucked away in one of the pedestrian passages is Balkan Grill Walter, a window-service location that serves bosna, an Austrian street food made of two grilled sausages tucked in a bun and topped with onions, parsley, and curry powder. They’re cheap and amazing.
  • Restaurant Stiegl-Keller – Look no further for traditional Austrian cuisine. I had the best schnitzel. There’s also an outdoor terrace where you can overlook the city.
  • Stiftsbäckerei St Peter – The oldest bakery in Salzburg dates back to the 12th century and is still still powered by a water wheel and uses a wood-fired oven. We shared an impossibly soft roll with raisins that was delicious.
  • Salzburger Grill Imbiss – This is another sausage stand that’s known for its bosna, but it also serves a variety of wursts including currywurst and has beer available. Take your food around the corner to University Square and enjoy your meal on the steps to Kollegienkirche to people watch.
  • Mozart Balls – The city’s most famous candy is made from pistachio, marzipan and nougat then covered in chocolate. You’ll find these just about everywhere in town. From what I understand, go to chocolate shops if you plan to enjoy them in the city, but ones from tourist shops or grocery stores and preferred if you’re going to bring them home as gifts as they’re more likely to have a longer shelf life.
  • Additional recommendations that were on our list, but we didn’t make it to: Die Weisse, Café Tomaselli, S’Kloane Brauhaus, and 220 GRAD.

Travel Tips


  • Get the Salzburg Card! For €45 per person, we had 72 hours’ access to every tourist site and the city’s public transportation — including transportation to Untersberg and a roundtrip ticket for the cable car. It’s a steal and also makes it a no-brainer to pop into attractions you might not otherwise be interested in. This guide has a comprehensive overview of the card benefits and suggested itineraries. I’d recommend getting the Salzburg Card right away when you arrive in the city. You can find it just about everywhere (we purchased ours at a bookstore in Salzburg’s main train station), and then use it for transportation to your hotel. We walked from the main station to our hotel in the historic district and it wasn’t a pleasant stroll. There were plenty of buses at the station that would have brought us there.
  • Public Transportation – The majority of the buses will take you to the same destinations in and around the historic district. They’re not particularly punctual, but they’ll come eventually. To go to the airport, we had our hotel call a taxi for us. It was a fairly quick drive that cost around €20. Worth it.
  • You’ll need cash. Many of the main tourist destinations and restaurants took credit, but we needed cash for smaller locations like the bosna stands and the Belgian beer bar.

Our Stay


Hotel Goldener Hirsch
Getreidegasse 37, 5020 Salzburg, Austria

I’ll be honest, this is the nicest hotel I’ve ever stayed in. It’s located in the city’s historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is brimming with Austrian charm — not surprising given its 600-year-old hunting lodge heritage, which is reflected throughout the property with mounted antlers and a leaping deer motif. We were upgraded to a king suite (see a video walkthrough here) that was well-appointed with all of the amenities you’d expect at a luxury hotel. The evening turn-down service and the accompanying chocolates didn’t disappoint either! I really can’t say enough good things about the property and its staff, and wholeheartedly recommend staying here if you’re planning a visit to Salzburg.

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Filed Under: Travel, Travel Guide Tagged With: Austria, Europe Travel Guide, Travel Guide

Weekend Getaway: Evanston, IL

August 3, 2022 by jessica Leave a Comment

Staying at four Graduate Hotel properties last year solidified my love of the brand. Each is located in a college town and the brand does a wonderful job bringing in each city’s personality by way of thoughtful design finishes and kitschy details. In recent years, the brand has done a summer promotion to attract travelers to university towns during a typically quiet time of the year. This year was no different. For 30 hours in May, Graduate sold $30 rooms for the month of July. (Each person was limited to one booking.) We thought about going somewhere outside of the Midwest, but with a trip to Europe scheduled for this fall, we opted to stay closer to home and choose a location that we could drive to. And with that, a trip to Evanston, IL was on the books.

I didn’t know much about Evanston attractions, but I figured we’d find enough things to fill 48 hours. If not, Chicago was only a short train ride away. I’m happy to report that my low expectations were unfounded and I was won over by the city’s charming gardens, quaint neighborhoods, and access to Lake Michigan. It’s not to say that there’s a lot to do in the city. There isn’t. But it has cute pockets all over that make a stay worthwhile.

Unfortunately two of places I wanted to visit were closed for the summer in preparation for fall exhibits: the Halim Time & Glass Museum and the Block Museum of Art. The American Toby Jug Museum museum also looked entertaining enough in an Roadside America sort of way, but was closed during our visit. Knowing that, autumn might be a better time to visit. That aside, I’m a firm believer that you can fill a day or two in just about any city and we made the most of our two-night stay in Evanston. Below, you’ll find photos from the trip along with our itinerary and recommendations!

Wearing: Amazon dress | Nike sneakers | Coach bag (old; similar) | Chloe sunglasses

Our Itinerary


Thursday

We arrived in Evanston around 4:30 p.m. and immediately checked into our room at the Graduate. As you’ll see below, the room was adorably traditional. We were hungry after the drive and walked down Davis Street, one of the city’s main areas for dining and shopping, to grab an early dinner at Taco Diablo. I’ve had better tacos, but the carne asada was good. (Skip the spicy shrimp and crispy fish tacos, which are just okay.) Afterward, we walked over to the Northwestern campus to stroll through the grounds, which are beautiful with lush gardens and mature trees — one of the areas we walked through that was particularly wooded was deafening with cicadas! On campus, you’ll find the Shakespeare Garden designed by Jens J. Jensen. The meticulous space features 50 plants that are mentioned in Shakespeare’s works. For a night cap, we took the L train over a couple of stops to Sketchbook Brewing Co.

Friday

While Dave got ready for the day, I set out in search of coffee and pastries on Davis Street and came across Newport Coffee House. The café has a sleek Scandinavian-inspired interior, great coffee, and delicious Swedish knot pastries. I bought a bag of coffee beans as a souvenir that they graciously ground for our espresso machine. Now fully caffeinated, we drove a few minutes north to see the Grosse Point Lighthouse grounds (the building was closed on Friday, unfortunately) and the Baháʼí House of Worship. The temple and its manicured grounds were stunning and I urge you to visit if you find yourself passing by on your way to Chicago.

We didn’t have anything earmarked for lunch after our cultural stops and a brief Google search led us to Bat 17, a deli-meets-sports bar. We split a pastrami that I’m still daydreaming about five days later. The pumpernickel bread that it was served on was the best I’ve had. Serving sizes are generous, but you can choose between a regular-sized sandwich or a larger version. We found that the regular was perfect for sharing.

We were planning to go into Chicago for dinner at Hopleaf, one of our favorites for Belgian beer and mussels, but it was still early and we needed something to fill the time. It was a hot day and Lake Michigan was beckoning. Beach access in Evanston is a little annoying because non-residents have to pay $10 per person per day (learn more here). Being the wild and crazy kids we are, we thought that $20 was worth it and off we went to kill some time before getting ready to head to Chicago for the remainder of the evening where we went to dinner and checked out the new Half Acre location.

Saturday

On Saturday morning, I foolishly decided to try a different location for pastries and tried the French bakery Pâtisserie Coralie. It was garbage. I got a chocolate croissant that was dry, a danish for Dave that he didn’t enjoy, and a hot ham and cheese croissant to split that was dripping in béchamel (huh?) and ice-cold in the center. The savory croissant ended up in the trash. The only thing that saved breakfast was that I still went to Newport Coffee House for iced lattes.

Before we got on the road northbound for Madison, we stopped by the nationally recognized Hewn Bakery. We picked up a loaf of bread and a couple of to-go sandwiches in the cooler to enjoy on the way home.


Our Stay


Graduate Hotel, located at 1625 Hinman Ave.

Parking: There’s a parking ramp nearby at the corner of Davis St. and Hinman Ave. for $18 per day.

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Filed Under: Travel Tagged With: Travel Guide, Weekend Travel Guide

Visit Portugal: Lisbon Recommendations

February 2, 2022 by jessica Leave a Comment

This post is long overdue! We traveled to Portugal in 2019 and I had wanted to share my favorites with you, but doing so seemed tone deaf during the lockdowns of the past two years. I realize that things aren’t perfectly safe just yet, but the world is starting to open up and Portugal is one of the most highly vaccinated countries. It’s also one of the most beautiful. Even if you can’t make it this year, I urge you to add the country to a future itinerary. In this post, I’ll share a list of the things we loved in the city of Lisbon.

Visiting new cities and countries often leaves me yearning for the opportunity to make my way back, and Lisbon was no different. The weathered beauty of the Alfama district, the intricacy of the tile work that adorned both the streets and buildings, the friendly people who know how to celebrate a soccer match, and — truth be told — the vihno verde that was both incredibly cheap and incredibly delicious made Lisbon such a special place to visit. Scroll down for some of my favorite snapshots from the trip, along with my recommendations for places to see, eat, drink, and shop in the city!

Tower of Belem
Lisbon Portugal
Mosterio de Sao Vicente de Fora

SEE & DO

  • Explore the Neighborhoods – It’s hard to put together a list of my favorite sightseeing stops from Lisbon because the city itself was just so beautiful. Everywhere you looked, tiles adorned buildings and were set into patterns on the streets and sidewalks. Honestly, just wandering around the city — especially in the Alfma district — was the biggest cultural highlight of the trip.
  • Museu Nacional do Azulejo – A beautiful collection of Portuguese tile.
  • Terreiro do Paço – This is the harbor-facing plaza with the yellow façade that you see in many photos of Lisbon. It’s absolutely worth the photo opp, and do take a walk along the water while you’re in the area.
  • Castelo de S. Jorge – The first fortifications of this Moorish castle date back to the 1st century BC. You can explore the grounds, but do be careful because there aren’t many guardrails.
  • Jerónimos Monastery – This is in the Belem area of Lisbon. After taking photos of the Padrão dos Descobrimentos monument and of the exterior of the Tower of Belem (we heard lukewarm reviews of the interior and just snapped photos), head over to the monastery. The architecture — especially the cloisters — is stunning.
  • Mosterio de Sao Vicente de Fora – We happened to be having a drink at a miradouros (more info below in the Eat & Drink section) and saw this building in the distance. It looked like people were on the roof, so we made the trek over. It ended up being one of the trip highlights and we didn’t even have it on our must-see map!
  • Carmo Convent – The 1755 earthquake left ruins of this gothic church. There’s a museum attached with artifacts.
  • Santa Justa Lift – I don’t want to disappoint you, but this is just an elevator. Sure, it’s pretty. But there are better views in the city at miradouros and they’ll be less crowded.
Lisbon, Portugal
Jerónimos Monastery

EAT & DRINK

  • Miradouros – There are miradouros all over Lisbon, which are little parks with spectacular views, often with a kiosk that sells snacks, wine, and beer.
  • Ginja – Try a shot of ginja, a cherry-infused liqueur served with a cherry in the glass, and small shops around the city. You can get it in a chocolate cup if you feel so inclined.
  • Pastel de Nata – Of course you can’t go to Lisbon and not have these iconic egg custard tarts with a shot of espresso (“bica”). We had them at both Fabrica da Nata and the iconic Pasteis de Belem. They’re both delicious.
  • Fábrica Coffee Roasters – We went here a couple of times for breakfast and loved it. They also had iced coffee, which is always a treat abroad (though I think iced coffee is finally becoming more ubiquitous).
  • Simpli – We also enjoyed this café and bakery. They put an orange slice in our iced coffee for aromatics, which was a fun surprise.
  • Boa-Bao – We were in the mood for Thai one night and stumbled across this restaurant. It had an upbeat atmosphere and they had a fun cocktail program.
  • Time Out Market – Sample some of the city’s most popular restaurants in one location. It ended up being an easy go-to when we were tired and didn’t want to put thought into another restaurant to try. We could split up and find our own meals. I went to Miguel Castro e Silva twice for the Bacalhau à Brás (codfish with julienne potatoes and scrambled eggs).
  • Pub Lisboeta – Cozy little bar with pizza and friendly service.
  • The Beer Station – I’m glad to see this small beer bar is still around! It’s in an open-air plaza near the Rossio train station.
  • Delirium Café Lisboa – Belgian beer fan? Here you go! They also serve frites.
  • Other Beer Bars – Crafty Corner, Cerveteca Lisboa, and Duque Brewpub.

SHOP

  • Sango Handmade Creations – I bought a camera strap from this artisan. (Truth be told, it was at a small art fair in Porto, but I wanted to include an acknowledgment here!)
  • Conserveira de Lisboa – You have to stop here to buy tinned fish! This shop is quaint and Instagram-worthy. Ask the people working for guidance on your selections if you’re dumbfounded like I was. They might come off a little reserved at first, but they’re incredibly friendly and willing to help.
  • A Vida Portuguesa – You’ll find this store all over the city. It has the best selection of Portuguese souvenirs covering a wide range of products.

ADDITIONAL NOTES

  • We stayed at the Iberostar. It was beautiful and well appointed. They even gave us a complimentary glass of champagne during check in, which I couldn’t turn down despite being exhausted from traveling. (We had a layover in Brussels and then our flight to Lisbon was delayed due to an airline worker strike. It was a whole thing.)
  • We found Lisbon to be incredibly affordable, and this extended to both public transportation and Ubers. There was one night we took an Uber from the Alfama district back up to our hotel and the total amount due was the equivalent of $3. I gave a 100% tip because that felt entirely too cheap!
  • You may be tempted to add a day trip to Sintra. I would only go if you were staying in Lisbon for an extended period of time (we were there for five days and six nights) as it really does take the better part of a day and it’s crowded. Most guides will recommend that you take the city’s buses to go to the destinations and while you certainly could, we took Ubers to the two places we wanted to go: Pena Palace and Quinta da Regaleira. A quiet, air-conditioned car was a nice respite from the touristy train with people packed in like sardines. If you do go, I’d recommend stopping for tapas at Tascantiga.
  • The best parts of the trip were — as always — the parts we didn’t plan for. We stumbled across a festival in one of the city squares. We joined in the dancing and split a bottle of wine, and it ended up being one of my most cherished moments of the trip.
Museu Nacional do Azulejo
Quinta da Regaleira
Lisbon Portugal

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Filed Under: Travel, Travel Guide Tagged With: Lisbon, Lisbon Portugal, Portugal, Travel Guide

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Jessica Hamm
Hello there! I'm a first-time homeowner updating a 1920s house in Madison, Wisconsin. I have a penchant for travel and a love of costume jewelry.

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I’m challenging myself to get through a backlog I’m challenging myself to get through a backlog of travel photos before we book our next trip. First up, photos of the gothic York Minster. I’m not religious in the slightest but I can’t resist stunning architecture and the opportunity to climb hundreds of cathedral stairs for a city view. This one only had a single rest stop about halfway up the flight of 275 steps for a closeup view of the flying buttresses — and a waiver you had to sign before your ascent to promise you’re healthy enough to make it.
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Visiting York earlier this month put us in the Hal Visiting York earlier this month put us in the Halloween spirit. While it claims to be the most haunted place in Europe and is dubbed the city of a thousand ghosts, we only encountered the wire-mesh sculptures of Ghosts in the Gardens (@the_york_bid) and the family of souvenir ghosts I brought home from @yorkghostmerchants. 

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