Travel Guide – Page 3

Portland Travel Diary

September 19, 2018 by jessica Leave a Comment

Portland was never on my list of must-visit travel destinations, but when Dave’s company sent him there to assist with an office move, I jumped at the chance to visit the city since his flight, his meals, the hotel, and the car would be paid for. Sure, he had to log hours at work, but that was a minor inconvenience when we still had every evening together and most of the weekend to explore. And after just a few days, I was smitten with Portland. I went on the trip with the misconception that Portland would have a granola-crunchy-hippie vibe, but that wasn’t the case. I mean, sure, there’s legal marijuana and plenty of Birkenstocks, but it’s a vibrant city that’s pulsing with creativity. That doesn’t even take into consideration the majestic coastline a short drive away, the beautiful Columbia River Gorge, and Mount Hood’s stunning addition to the skyline. I didn’t expect to be blown away, but I was and I’d love to visit again — but this time without any work requirements for Dave! Below, you’ll find photo highlights from the trip and a list of the things I recommend that you add to your own Portland itinerary.

A mural in downtown Portland.

Cannon Beach

STAY

We stayed at Hotel Rose, which is a Staypineapple property. While the room decor was eclectic and not in a good way (it felt like it was a newly acquired hotel that hadn’t yet been redecorated, but I don’t think that was actually the case), everything else about the stay was wonderful. Those staffing the front desk were exceedingly helpful, and they even set out pineapple cupcakes for an afternoon snack. The location was perfect for walking to just about everything we wanted to do. However, my favorite part was the bedding. Staypineapple properties have a separate duvet for each guest, so you kind of wrap yourself into a taco with it while you sleep. We first experienced that sleeping arrangement when we were in Denmark and it’s nothing short of amazing to snuggle into your own cloud. Plus, your partner can’t commandeer your half of the covers.

Blue Star Donuts

The Voodoo Doll donut at Voodoo Donuts. | A hazy IPA at Great Notion Brewing.

Vegan ice cream at Salt & Straw

EAT & DRINK

Belmont Fermentorium/Modern Times Beer – Fantastic beer lineup and a delicious vegan menu. I had the bulgogi tacos.
Blue Star Donuts – There’s a bit of contention over which bakery has better donuts: Blue Star or Voodoo. They’re both good in their own way. Blue Star’s unique flavor profiles really allow the individual ingredients to shine. We tried the blueberry bourbon basil (my favorite), the chocolate almond ganache, the horchata-glazed O.G., and a powdered sugar donut.
Grassa – Fresh pasta in a no-frills atmosphere with shared tables. You order at the counter when you first walk in.
Great Notion Brewing – We liked Great Notion so much that we stopped by two more times during our short trip. Their hazy IPAs are incredibly juicy with a depth of tropical notes. And you have to get the buffalo tostones, which are fried plantains tossed in buffalo sauce and served with a jicama slaw. (Fair warning: they’re incredibly filling. Dave and I made the mistake of ordering them and an entree each the first day, and it was way too much food.)
Loyal Legion – Loyal Legion was another favorite on the trip where we stopped a couple of times. They have an impressive beer lineup with 99 Oregon beers on tap, and a delicious $6 smash burger.
Luc Lac Vietnamese Kitchen – We had heard great things about Luc Lac, which was near our hotel, but the wait was staggering each time we thought about popping over for dinner. On a whim, I called to see if I could place an order for carry out. I could, and better yet, it was ready in roughly 15 minutes. Sure, our hotel room didn’t have the same ambiance as the restaurant did, but it didn’t matter at that point.
Salt & Straw – I’ve mentioned it before, but I’ve become lactose intolerant in my old age. Fortunately, in a city full of vegans, there are plenty of dairy-free items to eat — including ice cream! Salt & Straw has a wider variety of options for dairy lovers, but they always have one or two options on hand for people like me. I loved it.
Sizzle Pie – You can either get a whole pie or order by the slice. We ordered our slices to go (including the garlic-heavy Napalm Breath) and sipped on PBR while we waited.
Sparky’s Pizza – Another pizza-by-the-slice joint. It’s pretty basic and divey, but a good option for a cheap meal.
Stumptown Coffee Roasters – Stumptown is a PNW favorite for good coffee.
Voodoo Donuts – I refuse to stand in a long line for donuts and the only reason we stopped here was because it was close to Dave’s office, and it was fairly early in the morning so the line was roughly 10-15 people deep. They were good, but if the line stretches down the block like it’s known to do, skip it and wait for a week day.

Loyal Legion

Portland Art Museum

An installation at the Portland Art Museum.

Top: Portland Japanese Garden | Bottom: International Rose Test Garden

Cannon Beach

Cannon Beach – The Sunday of our trip was the only day Dave didn’t have to do anything at the office, so we decided to take the 90-minute drive to the Oregon coast. I’m so glad we did, too, because it was my favorite day of the trip. We first stopped at a local coffee shop for caffeine and brunch before walking along the shore to Haystack Rock, the iconic 235-foot sea stack featured in Goonies. We arrived as the tide was going out and by the time we got to the rock, the tide had receded and we were able to see the marine life living in the tide pools. Afterward, we went back to town for taffy at Bruce’s Candy Kitchen and drove to Tillamook to check out DeGarde Brewing. We thought about getting lunch at the famed Tillamook Creamery, but my goodness, that place was a zoo. They had parking lot upon parking lot and droves of people going to the facility. We skipped it since we’re already spoiled with amazing cheese here in Wisconsin.
Portland Art Museum – I went to the city’s art museum one afternoon while Dave was at work and spent a few hours looking at the exhibits. My favorite was the section about the indigenous people of the Pacific Northwest. Growing up in northern Wisconsin, I’m familiar with the artistry and traditions of the Ojibwe tribe. To see nautically inspired artifacts from people who lived along the Pacific coast was really interesting. I especially loved the whale headdress.
Portland Japanese Garden – Portland is home to one of the most authentic Japanese gardens outside of Japan itself. Spanning 12 acres, the property features eight separate garden styles, a traditional tea house, decades-old bonsai trees, and a breathtaking view of Mt. Hood.
International Rose Test Garden – Right across the street from the Portland Japanese Garden is a free rose garden with over 7,000 rose plants and approximately 550 species. You can read the history of the garden here, which sheds light on why Portland came to be known as the “City of Roses.”
Saturday Market – On Saturday morning from March through December, you can head to the river for the Saturday Market. It’s a local arts and crafts market with plenty of food vendors.
Multnomah Falls – A 30-minute drive from Portland along the Columbia River Gorge will get you to Multnomah Falls. When we were there, all of the hiking trails were closed due to the Eagle Creek Fire. However, we were still able to take a photo of the 620-foot falls and walk out on the upper viewing bridge. The parking situation is a bit cumbersome. The lot is located in the median of the highway with one-way entrance on either side. On our way from Portland to the falls, the lot was full and we were instructed to stop at another park and take a shuttle to the falls. It was the morning of our return flight and we weren’t keen on the idea of leaving the car with all of our luggage at another location in case the shuttle service was unreliable for timing. So, we continued along the highway all the way to the Bonneville Fish Hatchery. We took a quick look around and then headed back toward Portland, figuring the falls were a lost cause, but the other side of the lot was open and we were able to wait for a space.
It’s legal… – Serra is an Instagram-friendly marijuana emporium, if you’re into that sort of thing.
Photo op – You’ll want to take a photo of the White Stag sign — it’s that iconic “Portland Oregon” sign that you see everywhere. Get your photo from the Burnside Bridge.

Canoe

Serra

SHOP

Portland has a great selection of stores, even though I didn’t make it to nearly as many as I would have liked. Of course there was the requisite stop at Powell’s Books, the world’s largest independent bookstore. You could spend hours getting lost in there, browsing the aisles (and multiple floors) of new and used tomes. I loved Canoe, where I purchased a beautiful glass bowl made by Portland artist Lynn Read. Of course I also went to Schoolhouse Electric where I wanted to buy just about everything in the store. We bought these sconces for our living room before we visited the store in person and the craftsmanship is incredible. I’ve been a bit of a Schoolhouse fan girl ever since and it was fun to see everything on my wish list in person. (It’s all amazing. Obviously.) I also went to Jacobsen Salt Co. when I was in the neighborhood and procured garlic-infused salt (use it as a finishing salt), habanero-infused salt, and sea salt licorice. The Portland Japenese Garden has a nice gift shop with locally made pottery, of which I purchased a small decorative bowl.

Multnomah Falls

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48 Hours in Madison

May 25, 2018 by jessica Leave a Comment

It’s not often that I explore my hometown like a tourist, so when Toyota reached out and asked if I’d be interested in taking a Prius out for a spin in Madison to share some of my favorite local haunts as part of its #MyTownMyPrius campaign, I jumped at the chance. And talk about a perfect partnership; Madison is largely focused on eco-friendly and sustainable initiatives, especially in my neighborhood on the east side, which makes the Prius right at home on our isthmus. (I can get on board with driving a hybrid vehicle, but a mulch pile is another story.)

Below, you’ll find a two-day itinerary with some of the best that Madison has to offer, and I’ll admit that it wasn’t an easy task to narrow down what a perfect 48 hours in Wisconsin’s capital city would look like. If you have any questions or are in need of more travel recommendations, please let me know in the comments!

A bouquet from the Dane County Farmers’ Market.

Clockwise: a pitcher of beer at the Union Terrace, the Terrace’s iconic chairs, Madison Museum of Contemporary Art, the Wisconsin State Capitol

Lake Mendota

Dinner at Lucille on the Capitol Square.

SATURDAY

8 a.m. – Dane County Farmers’ Market

Start the day at the Dane County Farmers’ Market, the largest producers-only market in the country with approximately 275 vendors. Located on the Capitol Square, the market offers fresh produce and meat, flowers, breakfast pastries, squeaky cheese curds, and the crowd favorite: hot and spicy cheesebread from Stella’s Bakery. (You’ll know you’re getting close when the counterclockwise traffic flow comes to a halt.) In need of caffeine? There are plenty of options, but the two I’d recommend are near each other on South Pinckney Street across the street from the market: Graze for “Magic Coffee,” a concoction of half and half, cinnamon, brown sugar, coffee and espresso, and Colectivo on the Square.

10 a.m. – Admire the Local Architecture

Pop in for a tour of Madison’s most iconic buildings: the State Capitol. The capitol building dominates the Madison skyline thanks to an ordinance that no building within a one-mile radius can be taller than the base of the dome. You don’t need to participate in a formal tour, although they do exist, to admire the impressive dome and enjoy the sixth floor observation deck. Afterward, take a short walk down to another iconic Madison building: Monona Terrace, which is located on one of the two lakes that make up the downtown isthmus and was first designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in 1938. You can take a tour, stop in for one of the community events, or just enjoy the Rooftop Gardens.

1 p.m. – Lunch on the Square

Restaurants around the Square are busy when the farmers’ market wraps up near 2 p.m., but there are too many good options to skip this area of the city entirely. Here are a few I’d recommend:

The Old Fashioned – Inspired by Wisconsin taverns and supper clubs, this Madison icon is one of the best places to get fried cheese curds in the city (and definitely the best spot on the Square), which are everyone’s favorite bar snack. Serving sizes are generous and you may want to consider splitting a meal. And, don’t forget to order a brandy old fashioned. Wisconsinites are one of the top consumers of the liquor in the U.S.
Canteen – Craving tacos and tequila? This is your best bet.
The Coopers Tavern – This gastro pub features a solid beer menu and hearty food with locally sourced ingredients. The grilled cheese is my favorite with a mix of fontina, gouda, and applewood-smoked cheddar cheeses, topped house-made tomato jam on sourdough.
Graze – This is a great option for a farm-to-table experience. Get the bibimbap burrito, which is enough to feed two people if you’re not terribly hungry after eating your way around the farmers’ market.
Field Table – This restaurant-meets-market offers a rotating menu of seasonal ingredients in a contemporary setting. Their cocktail program is exceptional, so even if you don’t eat here, stop in for a tipple.

2:30 p.m. – Shopping and State Street

Walk off those lunch calories by continuing your journey around the Square and popping into local shops like Fromagination, a favorite for local artisan cheese. (You may want to consider putting cheese in your check bag. While you can bring it in your carry-on, apparently cheese is too dense to X-ray and your luggage will be hand searched.) Once you’ve gotten your fill of the Square, head down State Street, which connects the Capitol to the University of Wisconsin campus (my alma mater!), and is bustling with shops, restaurants, and bars. The street itself is open only to buses and cyclists, so feel free to dart back and forth between sides. Be sure to visit the Madison Museum of Contemporary Art, a free art gallery housed in a beautiful downtown building that’s great for an Instagram-moment on the glass staircase, and pop into the museum’s gift shop. (If you happen to be at the museum in the evening, visit the rooftop restaurant Fresco, which opens at 5 p.m. Snag an outdoor seat for dinner or cocktails.)

5 p.m. – Monroe Street

When you get to the end of State Street, lakeside beer will be tantalizingly close, but I’d urge you to hold off until the sun is about to set and head over to Monroe Street instead. Monroe Street offers over a mile of locally owned shops and restaurants to explore. A couple of favorites include Orange Tree Imports, a gift shop with an extensive selection of kitchenware, and Strictly Discs for new and used vinyl. Stop by our favorite restaurant for dinner: Brasserie V. It’s a Belgian-inspired pub with rustic, hearty food, addictive frites, and an extensive beer menu featuring local, American, and international beer. They have a cicerone on staff (the beer version of a sommelier) who directs the beer offerings, and any of their staff can help you select a beer to suit your tastes. It seems uninspired to recommend the burger, but I promise that their seasonal “V Burger” is always worth getting.

8 p.m. – Memorial Union Terrace

After dinner, head back to the end of State Street to visit the Memorial Union Terrace. Located on Lake Mendota, the Terrace is a favorite for university students and locals alike. Grab one of the iconic Terrace chairs (the green, yellow, and orange color scheme pays tribute to Wisconsin’s agriculture tradition), order a pitcher of beer, and enjoy the sunset over the lake. Check the Terrace After Dark calendar to see what free live music or movie is on deck for the evening. (In order to purchase beer, you technically need to be a Union member or obtain a guest pass here. They don’t always ask for it, so I wouldn’t worry about it too much. You can always duck out of line, fill out the request form, and hop back in.)

Rent a Madison BCycle and take advantage of the city’s cyclist-friendly streets and trails.

Clockwise: browsing at the farmers’ market, one of the city’s latest hot spots for brunch and cocktails: Mint Mark, cheese curds aplenty at the farmers’ market, exploring the Capitol Square

Madison, Wisconsin Travel Guide | Robin Room Madison, WI

The Summer G&T at Robin Room on East Johnson Street.

The Wisconsin State Capitol as seen from Lucille at 101 King St.

SUNDAY

10 a.m. – Brunch

As you may have gathered by now, Madison has no shortage of incredible restaurants and there’s no better way to start day two than with brunch at a local haunt. Embrace the city’s farm-to-table focus at Forequarter. (A few things to note: the French press coffee will come to you in an actual French press. The small is a completely reasonable size for one person. The large is gigantic. Just get one large to split. Also, the everything bagel breakfast sandwich is good, but it’s surprisingly small for the price tag. Just keep that in mind if you’re ravenous!) Another brunch option worth considering is Mint Mark, one of the city’s newest restaurant that’s getting a lot of buzz, thanks in part to its adorable interior with banana leaf wallpaper and rattan chairs.

11:30 a.m. – Get Active

Madison is an active city, and it’s necessary given the amount of cheese and beer we consume! For those itching for a water activity, head to Lake Wingra and rent a canoe, kayak, rowboat, paddleboard, or paddleboat. But I would strongly encourage you to experience Madison’s cyclist-friendly roads and bike paths by renting a bicycle through the BCycle program. It costs $6 for a 24-hour pass, but you do need to dock the bike at another station within 30 minutes for each trip. (That shouldn’t be a difficult task when you take a look at the station map and realize just how many are available downtown!)

1 p.m. – Olbrich Gardens & Biergarten

Bike over to Olbrich Gardens where there’s a BCycle station for you to dock your bike at, and explore 16 acres of free outdoor gardens. The jewel of the gardens is undoubtedly the Thai pavilion, a gift from the Thai government to the University of Wisconsin. It’s surrounded by traditional Asian gardens and a reflecting pool. You can also pop inside the Bolz Conservatory for exotic plants. Afterward, head across the street to Olbrich Park and visit the Olbrich Biergarten for a lakeside beer, fresh cheese curds, pretzels, and mini bratwursts.

3 p.m. – Neighborhood Exploration

Head back out on bike to visit two of Madison’s most noteworthy areas: Willy Street and Atwood Avenue. These east side locations are really the heart of the city and you’ll get a feel for our vibrant (and slightly hippie) culture. Below are a few recommendations for each area.

Willy Street:

Rewind – A well-curated vintage art and decor shop.
Madison Greenhouse Store – A plant store where you can also purchase chic pots for your greenery and decor items.
The Weary Traveler – Another bar and restaurant with locally sourced products. (I told you it’s a theme here!) I’m a fan of the West of the Andes Sandwich.
Working Draft Beer Company – One of Madison’s newest breweries, and a really good one at that. They’ve partnered with one of the best chefs in town to offer a dinner menu from 5 to 9 p.m. When they aren’t serving dinner, you’re encouraged to bring in food from a neighborhood restaurant.

Atwood Avenue:

Alchemy – Not surprisingly, this is another restaurant with food from local purveyors. I can’t get enough of their sweet potato fries that are more like potato chunks.
BarleyPop Tap & Shop – Both a beer shop and bar combined. Stop for a pint and then get beer to go. Dogs are welcome.
MadCity Music – Search for new and used vinyl at this neighborhood record shop.\
Monsoon Siam – Craving Thai food? This is one of my favorites.
Tex Tubb’s Taco Palace – Get a selection of à la carte tacos rather than going for a platter.

7 p.m. – Dinner on the Capitol Square

After spending time poking around some of the area neighborhoods, head back to the Capitol Square to cap off your weekend in Madison with dinner at Lucille.The decor is Instagram-worthy, the wood-fired pizzas are delicious, and the cocktails are perfect for toasting to your weekend getaway in Wisconsin! Cheers!

Brunch at Forequarter on East Johnson Street.

AC Hotel Madison located at 1 N. Webster St., near the Capitol Square.

STAY – The AC Hotel Madison is one of the newest hotels in Madison and would be the perfect spot for your stay. It’s near the Capitol Square, close to parking ramps if you’re not keen on valet service, the decor is sleek and sophisticated, the first-level bar makes an incredible Manhattan, and on the top floor you’ll find another favorite local restaurant: Eno Vino. It’s a wine bar and bistro that has some of the best views you can find downtown. (I love that the hotel opted not to make the top floors into suites and offered a restaurant instead. It’s a real testament to Madison’s community culture.)

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Thank you to Toyota for sponsoring this post!
(I wasn’t required to talk about the car’s features, but I already miss the wireless charging pad for my phone!)

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City Guide: New Orleans

May 4, 2017 by jessica 5 Comments

WHERE WE STAYED

Loft 523 – As expected, Loft 523 is a loft-style hotel with open, airy rooms with minimalist design that feels both sexy and artsy. The property has 18 loft-style hotel rooms and penthouse space. It’s a great location off of the French Quarter, which should have provided a slightly quieter retreat than it did. On the weekends, the hotel blasts music in its on-site bar. Our room was on the second floor and we could hear the music clearly. It wouldn’t have been such a big deal if we weren’t both sick for the duration of the trip and wanted to go to bed earlier than we would have otherwise. (Weirdly, though, I don’t think the bar is open to the public. We had to use our room entry key to get into the building at night.) Overall, we really liked the property and would consider staying there again. My favorite feature with the oversize tub in the bathroom, which was a welcome refuge after a long day of exploring. Its sister property is the International House across the street where you can use the exercise facilities. We found the best price on Expedia by booking the flight and hotel together.

TRANSPORTATION

From the Airport – I don’t think I’ve been in a more efficient taxi line ever! The people monitoring it were incredibly friendly, and they provide you with a brochure with a city map inside that also has your cab number written on it in case you forget to collect all of your luggage.
New Orleans Streetcars – While they might not be as convenient as getting an Uber, the streetcars in New Orleans are so charming! They’re also a wallet-friendly way to get around town. The St. Charles Line features the oldest continuously operating streetcar in the world. The streetcars fill up at peak times, so it’s not a great choice if you’re zipping off to dinner reservations. You can buy tickets ahead of time with the mobile app. Otherwise, you’ll need exact fare upon boarding.

EAT

Café DuMonde – I’m not sure any trip to New Orleans is complete without a stop by the popular coffee stand that opened in 1862. It’s definitely touristy and there’s a long line (although, it moves quickly). Personally, I’d skip the Frozen Café Au Lait if you’re getting beignets. I have a sweet tooth, but it was entire too much together! Afterward, explore the area around Jackson Square for live music and local artisans who set up shop on the street. If NOLA isn’t on your immediate travel itinerary, you can pick up some of the iconic beignet mix and make them at home. (We also heard great things about Café Beignet, but didn’t have a chance to stop by.)
Central Grocery and Deli – This is touted as the birthplace of the muffuletta, the Italian sandwich made with marinated olive salad, layers of mortadella, salami, mozzarella, ham, and provolone. The shop was founded in 1906 by Salvatore Lupo, a Sicilian immigrant who created the sandwich, and the grocery store looks like it hasn’t changed since it was first built! We went with a full sandwich to split, which was too much food. I’d urge you to split a half muffuletta, grab a beer from the liquor store next door, and find an area in the nearby park along the Mississippi to enjoy your meal.
The Company Burger – Think of this place as a chic diner with an excellent beer lineup. The burgers are made quickly and there’s a condiment bar with various aioli to suit your tastes.
Felix’s Restaurant & Oyster Bar – We were planning to go to Acme Oyster House, but the long line deterred us and we found ourselves at the slightly quieter oyster bar across the street — and I’m so glad we did! This was my favorite meal of the trip. We kicked things off with oyster shots, followed by char-grilled oysters as a starter. The buttery, garlicky oysters are a must when you’re in NOLA! They’re cooked, so no worries if swallowing slimy seafood isn’t your thing. I had a half crawfish po-boy with étouffée, and Dave opted for red beans and rice. It was all exceptional and I can’t imagine the Acme Oyster House would have been better.
Pêche Seafood Grill – We didn’t actually make it here, but I’ve heard so many good things from online reviews and friends who have visited New Orleans that I’d be remiss to leave it off my recommendation list. Go there and let me know how good it is!

DRINK

The Avenue Pub – Beer bars are hard to find in New Orleans, so we made ourselves at home here! The food is also exceptional. We tried the “To Die for Fries” that were served with a cheddar bechamel, tempura fried oyster mushrooms, and hummus. (We actually split the mushrooms and hummus for lunch one day and it was more than enough food for the two of us.) In need of a local beer recommendation? Opt for Parish’s Envie.
Barrel Proof – Love whiskey and beer? This place is for you! We went at night and it was a chill atmosphere and each cocktail we had was amazing.
Carousel Bar & Lounge – I’m sure you’ve seen pictures of the famous Carousel Bar! As you might expect, it’s a carousel that has been made into a bar and slowly rotates while guests are seated. The cocktails here are fantastic. Get the Milk Punch (a NOLA must-drink that tastes like boozy eggnog without the heaviness) and the Pimm’s Cup. True confession: I brought along a plastic Ziploc bag in my purse to stash any drink accessories I collected on the trip, like stir sticks, to eventually add to our bar collection.
The Courtyard Brewery – The brewery’s offerings are just okay. Definitely try a few, but you might find yourself exploring their guest taps instead. Either way, it’s the nighttime ambiance that will win you over. There’s an outdoor courtyard with tables and twinkling lights where you can kick back to relax away from the chaos of the French Quarter.
Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop Bar – As the oldest bar in New Orleans, this place has been slinging drinks since the 1700s. In fact, it’s considered one of the oldest structures in the city. Located in the French Quarter, the bar’s signature drink is the Frozen VooDoo Daiquiri. You may as well order one to kick off your stay in the Big Easy.
Pat O’Brien’s Bar – This is obviously a tourist destination, but it’s one that you should really have on your list for a first-time visit to New Orleans. Get a Hurricane and hangout in the courtyard for people watching. You can buy glassware on site as a souvenir, or you can just follow in my footsteps and snag a matchbook in the bathroom to commemorate your visit. (I’m all about restaurant and bar matchbooks!)
Tujague’s – This is considered the second-oldest restaurant in NOLA, but we opted to just visit the stand-up bar for the classic Ramos Gin Fizz. The place gets crowded quickly, especially with tour groups stopping by to imbibe on their walk. It’s best if you wait to pop in between groups for a better experience. A word of caution: the bathroom was pretty scuzzy.

Bourbon Street – If it’s your first time in New Orleans, you absolutely must do Bourbon Street once for the boozy experience that it is. Wear sneakers as the streets quickly become filthy. (We were out early in the morning and saw the streets being hosed down to wash away the spilled alcohol.) I liked walking around in the morning to admire the architecture. #OldLady
French Quarter – Get lost walking around the French Quarter enjoying the architecture, and popping into shops and restaurants. I fell in love with Hové Parfumeur, a perfume shop that was founded in 1931. I purchased the Clochette des Bois perfume, an elegant lily of the valley scent, as my souvenir of the trip. Spritzing it on transports me back to the city!
Garden District – The Garden District is home to the most picturesque and historic residential properties, like the Cornstalk Fence Mansion. (It’s for sale if you have $6.5M laying around.) Lafayette Cemetery No. 1 is located here and doesn’t require a tour guide to tour the cemetery, unlike the famed St. Louis Cemetery No. 1. Here’s a resource for a self-guided tour.
Jackson Square – Jackson Square is a historic park that features the impressive Saint Louis Cathedral. The square feels like the heart of New Orleans with live music and local artisans selling their wares. The square is roughly four blocks from The French Market, which is also worth a stop.
Magazine Street – We didn’t get a chance to explore Magazine Street, but it’s on my must-do list the next time we visit the city. It’s filled with clothing boutiques and antique shops.
St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 – I urge you to put this at the very top of your to-do list. The cemeteries in New Orleans are rich with history and folklore. You can only visit St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 with a tour guide because of its history of vandalism, but it’s really the best way to have done it anyway. It affords you the opportunity to learn about the burial traditions of NOLA, see Nicolas Cage’s pyramid tomb, and visit the grave of Marie Laveau. We did our tour with Save Our Cemeteries, a nonprofit that works to restore and preserve the city’s cemeteries.
Steamboat Natchez – I’m including this on the list because we did it, but I wouldn’t actually recommend the two-hour excursion down the Mississippi river. You can do a lunch or dinner cruise, or you can just purchase tickets for the cruise sans food (which is what we did). The hour out from the dock is more interesting as the narrator explains what we’re passing and seeing along the river (like the Domino sugar refinery). On the way back, there’s a jazz band that performs and you’re free to wander around the steamboat. There is a cash bar on the boat, which is reasonably priced. Stick me on a boat and I’m usually happy as a clam, but this one was too long and I was counting down the minutes until we were back on land.

WHAT I WORE

A one-shoulder top with denim shorts here.
A pleated yellow dress here.
A short dress with a ruffled bodice here.

Browse other New Orleans posts here!

P.S. There’s an image for your travel Pinterest board after the jump! 😉

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Nashville Photo Diary & Travel Guide

March 3, 2017 by jessica 5 Comments

I’ve finally put together a recap of our long weekend in Nashville last October. I’m not a country music fan by any stretch of the imagination (I’m more of a hip-hop girl), so people were surprised that we were making the trek to Music City. But there’s more to the city than just honky tonks (which you have to do, by the way). It’s a vibrant city with pockets of charm that appeal to both country music lovers and non-lovers alike! I listed the things that we did on our trip below. This barely scratches the surface of what Nashville has to offer, but we did a pretty good job of experiencing the highlights over three days.

Sonix iPhone case

THINGS TO SEE & DO

Honky Tonk: Even if you’re not a huge country music fan, you can’t go to Nashville and completely ignore the music scene. Just about every bar downtown offers free live music each weeknight. Just head to Music Row and pop into any bar to embrace the honky-tonk scene. It’s a lively, laid back experience that really shouldn’t be missed. Be sure to bring singles so you can tip the bands! My favorite night was at Nashville Crossroads where a younger band was playing. There weren’t many patrons in that bar, so they were casually taking requests. After one girl requested “Baby Got Back,” Dave requested R. Kelly’s “Remix to Ignition.” It was more amazing than you could possibly imagine with a country twang! (Be prepared to show your I.D. everywhere no matter your age. To a Wisconsinite, it was a little obnoxious since we rarely need to flash our I.D. if we look over 21.)
Street Art: Nashville has an incredible street art scene with murals in the most unlikely places. Some of my favorites were spotted just walking around the downtown area. However, there are a couple of iconic photo locations you’ll want to add to your itinerary for a true Nashville experience: “What Lifts You” by Kelsey Montague (302 11th Ave. S.) with the pint-sized version for dogs and “I Believe in Nashville” by Adrien Saporiti (2706 12th Ave. S.). Be prepared to wait your turn in line with a bevvy of other girls and their Instagram Husbands eager to get the perfect shot.
John Seigenthaler Pedestrian Bridge: This bridge spans the Cumberland River and offers great views of the city skyline.
The Parthenon: Built in 1987 as part of the Tennessee Centennial Exposition, The Parthenon in Nashville is a full-scale replica of the Athens original. I wanted to go inside and see the statue, but I suddenly felt sick and had to head back to the hotel for some R&R.
Go Gaga for Goo Goos: I had never had a Goo Goo Cluster before visiting Nashville, and I was missing out on its marshmallow nougat, caramel, roasted peanuts and milk chocolate perfection. You can visit the factory, but it’s unremarkable unless you’re a huge fan and have a burning desire for Goo Goo-emblazoned products to bring home. I just picked up bags of the mini Goo Goos at Walgreens and was Goo Goo shamed by the employee who asked if I was eating them for breakfast. (So what if I am, sir…so what if I am?)
Hatch Show Print: If you’re a huge letterpress fan, book a tour to get a behind-the-scenes of this iconic print shop. Their posters make for unique souvenirs and you’ll enjoy them long after you get home, unlike cowboy boots and rhinestone-encrusted belts.
The 12South Neighborhood: 12South is a vibrant neighborhood in Nashville that offers plenty of restaurants, bars, and shops. In fact, it’s where Draper James and its photo-worthy blue and white striped wall is located. Be sure to check out White’s Mercantile, which is a carefully curated, modern take on general store. When we were there, Amelia’s Flower Truck was parked outside. You can follow them on Instagram for their location each day. It’d be a shame to visit Nashville and miss out on that Insta-opportunity.

Line & Dot dress (old; love this) | Ann Taylor sandals (love these and these) | Julie Vos necklace (c/o)

PLACES TO EAT & DRINK

The Pharmacy Burger Parlor & Beer Garden: The Pharmacy will satisfy any burger craving you might have with a menu full of creative burger toppings. They also serve German-style wursts and vintage-style soda shop offerings like milkshakes and malts. The real gem of The Pharmacy is the outdoor beer garden. It’s a well-landscaped oasis and the perfect place to throw back a few pints on a warm night. The stroganoff burger is amazing. (Dave and I split one because the portions were gigantic.)
Husk: Husk is definitely a splurge, but it’s an absolute must for a romantic date night. The restaurant serves up traditional Southern ingredients with a sophisticated twist and is housed in an elegant historic mansion. Like most of Nashville, the dress code isn’t terribly formal. You can get away with a simple dress and a pair of nice flats. Make reservations in advance to make sure you get a table.
Hattie B’s Hot Chicken: Hot chicken is a Nashville staple and Hattie B’s is the place to go to experience the spicy fried chicken with Southern sides and local beer. There’s typically a long line, but it moves fairly quickly and the food is absolutely worth the wait.
The Filling Station: Located in the 12South neighborhood, this is one of Nashville’s best destinations for craft beer. It’s a store-meets-bar with a myriad of regional brews available on tap and for carry out. There are just a few tables inside, but you can also take your beer to the small outdoor seating area.
Frothy Monkey: Rumored to be one of Taylor Swift’s favorite Nashville locations, Frothy Monkey is one of the best brunch spots in town. Be sure to get the turtle latte for a caffeinated treat.
Yazoo Brewing Company: Yazoo Brewing Company is a local brewery with a wide selection of beer varieties to enjoy on-site. The taproom is large and lively and a great place to enjoy a few mid-afternoon brews before continuing your tour of the city. There’s also an outdoor seating area.
Jackalope Brewing Company: I didn’t like this brewery as much as Yazoo Brewing Company, but it was still a solid option for a couple of beers. They have games available, too.

A DETOUR WORTH MAKING
If you head to Nashville through Kentucky, you can stop at Kentucky Down Under and feed kangaroos! Best. Day. Ever.

Copenhagen Travel Guide: Dos and Don’ts

May 19, 2016 by jessica 10 Comments

I was overwhelmed when I began working on my Copenhagen travel guide. There’s just so much to share with incredible architecture and museums, shops to check out, restaurants to try, and bars to cozy up in. I just couldn’t figure out where to start, so we’re going to begin with the basics. This guide is going to be dedicated to practical info, travel tips, and debunking some of the advice I came across when I was doing my own research. In the coming weeks, I’ll share a guide of must-see attractions and shopping destinations; another of the cafes, restaurants, and bars to stop at; and a final Denmark guide for a day trip to Helsingør (and a stop in Helsingborg, Sweden!). Then, I’ll take you to Belgium. And, all complete with Google maps you can snag for your own travel planning. Whew!

Do rest assured that the Danish are nicer than everyone claims. In my preliminary trip research, I read that the Danish aren’t overly friendly. Not standoffish, necessarily, just reserved. We didn’t find that to be the case. Just about everyone we met were exceedingly kind and helpful.

Don’t worry about a language barrier. Danish is a hard language to learn and while we studied up on the basics with Duolingo, we didn’t have to use any of our skills once. The Danish word for hello is “hej” (pronounced “hey”) and once we responded with an American accent, everyone switched to flawless English with virtually no discernible an accent. Most menus are also in English.

Don’t bother taking out cash. Credit cards are accepted everywhere – including the ubiquitous hot dog stands where I was certain they’d request cash. (The Danes love their hot dogs.) I’m a worrywart and made Dave take out cash on our first full day there. We took out 500 DKK (approximately $75) and struggled to find places to spend it. We ended up using the last $50 on drinks one night. The bartender was confused and miscalculated the cost of our drinks without the aid of the credit card machine to tally the final price. Seriously, no one uses cash. It’s awkward. No one likes it or wants it. Save yourself the headache and bring your chip-enabled credit card. That’s it.

Don’t worry about needing a PIN number for your credit card. While I technically have a PIN with my credit cards, I’m not sure what the purpose is since we can’t actually use that number in lieu of a signature overseas. I watched a video that urged viewers to make sure their card has a PIN because you’ll be turned away otherwise. That’s B.S. My PIN didn’t work once and everyone was happy — albeit confused — to print off a receipt for a signature. (They typically struggled to find a pen.) Really though, why can’t America just get on board with the chip and PIN? It’s not like our scribbled names actually look like our signature, leaving the rest of the world is baffled by our poor security measures. (Yes, this is one soapbox I’m happy to climb atop.)

Don’t be alarmed if you come across a baby unattended in a stroller outside. It’s common for Danish parents to let their infant sleep outside seemingly unattended, swearing that the brisk air has health benefits for the little one. Don’t worry, though. The parents are usually keeping a watchful eye from a nearby window. Kidnappings are rare in Copenhagen. One source stated that there were three in the last 30 years, but I could’t find a reputable site to verify that. Either way, the Danes trust each other in a way that American’s can’t quite understand.

Don’t get run over by a bicyclist. While Amsterdam technically gets the crown for most bikes per capita, I didn’t worry about cyclists clipping me there nearly as much as I did in Copenhagen. (Honestly, Amsterdam had a lot of mopeds when we visited in 2014. They were annoying.) There’s a dedicated bike lane on busy streets. Be just as careful to cross it as you do the auto lanes. During rush hour, the speed of bike traffic is astonishingly fast and it’s not going to stop if you stumble out.

Do heed crosswalk signals. Americans are pretty lackadaisical when it comes to obeying the crosswalk. Not the Danish. They follow those rules diligently and wait patiently for the light to change before crossing the street — even when there’s no oncoming traffic.

Do get a local SIM card. We purchased a Lebara SIM card at a mobile telephone store in the airport with the help of a store clerk to get us set up. The initial card didn’t include very much data, but it was enough to get us situated, get directions to the city center, and last another day and a half with heavy usage. (I wish I remember which plan we purchased, but I was in a post-flight haze.) There’s an instruction card in the package that will guide you through setting up your text alerts in English. After you breeze through your plan, you can buy inexpensive top-off cards for more data at nearly every convenience store in the city. Lycamobile is another brand that seems to be available in more European cities and may be a better bet if you plan to travel to a different country. Obviously you’ll need to have an unlocked phone to take advantage of a local data plan.

Do take the Metro. It’s fast, clean, and incredibly convenient. You’ll have your first encounter with the Metro station when you leave the airport. My credit card wouldn’t work in the self-service kiosks to purchase a Metro ticket, so I’d suggest going directly to the counter. Heading to the city center will be three zones, but the service agent can help determine the length of your trip based on the stop where you’d like to exit. As with everything else in Copenhagen, the Metro system is based on trust. You don’t need to scan a pass to enter the station and it’s rare you’ll be asked to show a ticket on board. But don’t try sneaking on without paying. It’s a 750 DKK fine. To make your journeys even easier, download the Metro’s Mobilbiletter app. You need a Danish phone number* to set up an account, so do it after your SIM card situation is figured out. The app will save your credit card number, so all you’ll need to do is select the zone length and number of tickets and pay. (It also has a trip planner if you need help with the zone amount. You’re typically only going two zones if you’re staying near the center of the city.) You can find more details about the public transportation system here, here, and here.

*If you read the comments below, you’ll see that a reader was able to use her phone number without a problem. Dave wasn’t able to make the app work with an American number and I tried successfully with my Danish number. I’m not sure if it just needed a European number because of the digit length?

Do enjoy a lot of pastries and coffee. The Danish are pros at breakfast sweets, and they take coffee culture very seriously.

Do try salted licorice. So good! I’ll be placing an order for more when my supply runs low.

Do wear sneakers. I’ve never seen a higher concentration of stylish kicks in one place before! Just about everyone wore sneakers with their outfits, including women in skirts and dresses. I had a pair of Pumas and the slip-on version in this post on repeat. Chelsea boots were also common, but not nearly as ubiquitous as sneakers.

Do pack warm layers. It’s chilly, and from what I understand, that’s still the case in the summer. We went to Copenhagen in April and I figured my suitcase full of dresses would be just fine. After all, I wear them in Wisconsin in the spring with similar 50-degree temperatures. That wasn’t the case. Don’t underestimate the cold Scandinavian breeze! I ended up wearing jeans and sweaters almost exclusively. There was a sunny morning where this dress was completely fine to wear, but I still needed a jacket and a scarf. I’d urge you to add layers to your suitcase no matter the time you’re traveling.

Do expect to go over your budget. Like most Scandinavian cities, Copenhagen is one of the world’s most expensive places to visit. There’s really no getting around it, unless you’re going to eat and drink in your Airbnb exclusively (see below). But that doesn’t seem like much fun, does it? Restaurant prices are up there, but the portions are generous. There’s a hefty tax on alcohol with beer coming in at approximately $10 each. That said, I wouldn’t let the cost of Copenhagen deter you. Just be prepared to budget more than you think you’d spend. Dave and I spent an average of $250 each day — 50% more than the following week in Brussels. That total doesn’t include souvenirs or accommodations. If you’d like to get a VAT refund on any of your purchases (Royal Copenhagen, anyone?), here are the instructions. You’ll just need to spend at least 300 DKK (approximately $45) at a retailer to apply. The airport location is easy to find.

Do consider an Airbnb. Living like a local in Copenhagen is significantly cheaper than booking a hotel. We stayed at this place, which came in at nearly half the price of a traditional hotel. It’s near the Forum Metro station, which made getting around easy, and there’s a grocery store nearby for cheap eats. If you don’t already have an Airbnb account, sign up through my link and we’ll both get a $20 credit.

Do get a Copenhagen Card. The Copenhagen Card offers free admission to 73 museums and attractions and free public transportation. (Two children under 10 can also tag along for free.) It’s an incredible value if you do some pre-planning to get your money’s worth out of the card. (You can explore the city at a leisurely pace after your card expires!) There are 24-, 48-, 72-, and 120-hour cards available. We purchased the 48-hour card during the off-season for around $55 per person. With our 48-hour card, we visited the Maritime Museum, Kronborg Castle, Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, Botanical Garden, Rosenborg Slot, Statens Museum for Kunst, and Tivoli Gardens. Plus, all of our train and Metro travel was covered, including the trip to Helsingør and a discount on the ferry to Helsingborg, Sweden.

Do consider flying SAS. We flew Scandinavian Airlines from Chicago to Copenhagen, with a return trip from Brussels. (We took Brussels Air from Copenhagen to Brussels.) It was by far the most affordable flight we found to Denmark coming in at just $818 per person. They routinely have airfare sales and they fly to more destinations than just Scandinavia. Overall, we were very happy with the airline. It was clean, the food was palatable (warm rolls!), and the staff were friendly. However, we did have a couple of snags. Our return flight was originally scheduled for April 23. When I went online the day we departed to double check times, I noticed that they had bumped up our return flight to April 22 without notifying us. Part of the problem was the post-terrorist travel delays at the Brussels airport, but from what I understand, they would have left our flight on April 22 had I not caught it in time and called. The second snag was when we left Brussels. With the tightened security, we were asked to bring our boarding pass to the airport before we even entered the facility. SAS’ online check-in was down, causing unnecessary stress the day we left. All in all, that wasn’t the biggest deal. I had printed off our ticket confirmations, which was enough to get us through security. I was more miffed about the flight change and spoke with the airline afterward. We were given Star Alliance airline miles as an apology for the lack of communication when the flight was changed, equal to that of the number we earned on the round-trip flight itself. We’re incredibly close to another international flight for free!